Saturday 26th December – Christmas
Despite all my planning and best efforts, including booking a later train, I only made it to Kitsuki station with 3 minutes to spare. I think I had over packed a bit, though in true Rhodent fashion much of it was a selection of the best South African wine I could find in my town.
After taking the Sonic from Kitsuki to Kokura I caught the Nozomi to Tokyo station. I love taking the trains. Asides from the small inconvenience of not having a place to stash your luggage it is the nicest way to travel. It is fast and comfortable and I have never slept so well on public transport. And, unlike flying you actually get to see the scenery. It is pure fallacy that you don’t get to see the countryside. In fact I would say you get to see more of it – just really quickly. Sadly it was dark by the time I got into the greater Tokyo area so I missed Fuji-san.
I was met at Tokyo station by Joe, a fellow Cape Town dweller who my travel mate on my flight to Japan, who then took me back to Shirokana dai where we would spend our first few nights. I was greeted at my accommodation with the small of roasting chicken – it was wonderful. Joss, my little saffer sister and Penny (Joe’s wife) had spent the day preparing a belated Christmas dinner – complete with roasted veggies, carrots and a salad that included feta cheese. It was the best meal that I have had since coming to Japan. They really went to a lot of effort as it is a mission to find a whole chicken in Japan.
The rest of the evening was just a blur of food, presents and German and South African wine. We also took the opportunity to watch actual television – just like Christmas at home. It was just so nice to be back in South African company with people who speak your language and understand what you mean when you say braai or robot. As Joss kept saying the whole holiday “Ons moet n ander taal praat” as the two of us proceeded to butcher the Afrikaans language.
Sunday 27th December - Shibuya & Harajuku
It had been decided that this would not be a hectic, mad rush of a holiday and that we would rather take it easy in Tokyo. So no getting up early to catch the train or mad attempts to fit everything in. So Sunday only really began at about 10 with a really late breakfast.
It was then time for our alternative tour of Tokyo as guided by Joss. We started off at Shibuya at the world famous statue of Hachiko. Hachiko is the Greyfriars Bobby of Japan who waited at the station for his master every night for 10 years. The statute dates back to 1936 and last year his story was made into a movie starring Richard Gear (though I have an inkling it was only “loosely” based on the real story). This is one of the favourite meeting places in Tokyo, though it still can be a mission to find the people you are looking for, as Shibuya is just so busy. In fact it is one of the busiest places on earth. Thousands of people cross Shibuya crossing on a daily basis to get to and from the station. Even at night it is just a mass of people. It is truly fantastic.
We then made our way through all the shops and side streets towards Harajuku. Penny, Joe and I were just so lucky to have Joss who pretty much owns the Tokyo. It is really nice to walk Tokyo but it does help if you have someone who knows where they are going and I am still insanely jealous of her placement in Tochigi.
Harajuku was something else. We took ages walking down Takeshita-dori which is an alley filled with lots of tiny shops. No Louis Vuitton or Channel here. It is the centre of Tokyo’s teen culture and rather alternative, so we witness to some of the crazy aspects of Japan. We were a bit late but we did get to see one or two Harajuku girls and a couple of the Elvis impersonators but didn’t see them perform.
So after an evening of meandering and shopping, we grabbed a crepe and headed back to the house.
Monday 28th December – Senso-ji Temple & Akihabara
Penny and I started the day off bravely with a trip to the hairdressers. Yet again I had to break out my best charades skills to explain what I wanted. Though I still maintain that East London is the best place in the world to get a hair cut. It was actually quite reasonable for Japan – even in comparison to the crazy prices that Cape Town hairdressers feel they are justified in charging – and it included a head massage. The cut wasn’t too bad and it should hold out till I get home in July. They just have a habit, as Joss puts it, of blow-drying western hair in a style that would have been acceptable in the 80’s. It is just accepted that it is going to be easier to have long hair in Japan.
After a lunch of udon and tempura we made our way Senso-ji Temple, the most sacred temple in Tokyo. Sadly it was being renovated so we couldn’t see the main hall in all its splendour. Though the 5–story pagoda and Nakamise-dori still made it worth the visit. I was a bit worried about my fortune I received – though it was a bit better than Joss’, which was the “last and final” fortune. Mine was just bad. What happens is that after a donation of ¥100 you get to shake a box and pull out a numbered stick. You then take your fortune from the same numbered draw. This was mine (and in case you were thinking of commenting about the spelling and/or grammar this was is in fact an accurate transcription) :
No. 77 BAD FORTUNE
Everything stay and stick without progress. Even if you want to let other people know your name or try to get good fortune, never desire what beyond your control.
It is real hard to cross, on the boat, a pid and high wave is on your way.
Although your request seem to be granted, by enormous, barrier, your goal is far away like the earth to the sky.
* Your request will not be granted. * The patient is hard to get well. * The lost article will not be found. *The person you wait for doesn’t come. * Building a new house and removal are both bad. *To start a trip is no good. *Marriage of any kind or new employment are both bad.
So it is good to know all this now before I build my mansion in Camps Bay or plan my trip to the moon. I am also not sure what they mean by marriage of any kind…
Akihabara was our next destination. This is Tokyo’s electronics district, which developed out of the ruins of WW2. It is also otaku (easily identified by their backpacks and plaid shirts) central and we visited a 6-story manga fanatic’s paradise. The area surrounding the station is just a blaze of colourful lights and shops selling electronics.
Tuesday 29th December – Kamakura Town & Yokohama
We decided to head out of Tokyo to Yokohama and Kamakura town. I love Japan’s train system and if you ever find yourself in Tokyo then get a suika – it makes life much easier and if you hide it in your gloves you can confuse the station guards by swiping you hand.
Anywho Kamakura is now my favourite place in Japan. It is just the most wonderful town and I would like to go back and see more. It was Japan’s capital from 1185 – 1333 though I beginning to realise that EVERYWHERE has been Japan’s capital at some point. The life span of Japan’s capitals seems to be a kin to that of the fame of UK reality TV stars – and sooner or later everyone gets a chance. Regardless, Kamakura is worth the visit and I didn’t spend nearly enough time there. I really loved the tiny electric train that runs through the town.
Kamakura has over 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist temples as well as (according to my Kyoto-sensei) the biggest bronze Buddha in Japan. The Daibutsu, as it is known, was cast in 1252 and has survived every possible form of natural disaster (including Americans). And for a mere R2 you can go inside and admire the technologically advanced (for the time) casting techniques.
From Kamakura we stopped over in Yokohama for dinner in China Town – and it is amazing how you could tell the difference. Almost every restaurant window had displays of the different size portions of shark fin soup, though it did not inspire me to try it. We ate at one of restaurants down one of the many alleys, where Joss and I were robbed of our dumplings. The food was really good and I am pleased to say they I did not have sweet and sour pork.
Next on the tour was the Cosmo Clock 21 the largest Ferris wheel in Japan and allegedly the world. It was a bit expensive but worth it to see the night lights of Yokohama. We also rode the rollercoaster, which Joss and I just laughed through, though I am still not sure exactly what was so funny. Though the best bit of that ride was the plunge into the tunnel.
Wednesday 30th December - Comiket
One of the best things about my trip to Tokyo was that we really did a combination of things. To truly visit Japan you have to explore all of its many facets, including the bizarre and alternative. You will get really bored if you spend the entire time visiting only temples and shrines. Sure, you need to visit some but Japan is much more diverse and interesting, and you can’t ignore the popular culture. So Wednesday was spent at Comiket also know as the Comic Market. This is was Comic Con is to comic book fanatics and Star Trek conventions are to Trekkies.
We met up with Tuan aka sunshine, and made our way along with the rest of Tokyo to Tokyo Big Site. This is in Odaiba near Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo’s only beach. It was incredible just due to the masses of people that were coming and going. At one point, we had to join this circulating sea of people and just move in a circle until we hit the exit like salmon. It seemed like the only way to get anyway was to join a stream and hope that you got where you wanted to go.
The exhibition halls were also packed with displays. Comiket is for fans who want to display there own, privately produced manga, fanfic and merchandise. Everything is divided into sections and there was even one area dedicated to cat lovers. We didn’t make it to the commercial hall, as we took one look at the crazy queue and decided it wasn’t work it.
Though by far the best bit was the cosplay square, where fans dress up as their favourite characters and pose for photographs. Some of the costumes are just astounding in terms of the detail. Tuan was particularly good at harassing the cosplayers into posing with his Springbokkie plushy. Cosplay isn’t really accepted in Japan – much like many other youth culture movements – and it is a crazy contrast to the usual rigid, formal norms of their society.
Dinner was eaten in Shibuya and followed with 3 hours of traditional Japanese entertainment – karaoke. It really is a blast, though it depends on whom you are with, and really there is nothing better than blasting out the National Anthem after a rousing, rendition of Toto’s Africa (I think we scared our 2 American guests). It fact it could almost have been a castle advert.
Friday 31st December – 1st January 2010 - New Year’s Eve & New Year’s Day
In preparation for New Year’s Eve we spent the day at the flat relaxing and building up some strength – and considering how our night ended up we needed it.
Tuan joined us at 6 and we had our starters, which included some Saffer original springbokkies courtesy of Joss whilst listening to a SA playlist, which consisted of Mango Groove and Johnnie C amongst others. We then reminisced by playing Nando’s ads and Whackhead pranks before heading back to Shibuya to meet the American at the dog.
Shibuya was packed with people waiting to see in the New Year, and we were there early so I can’t imagine what it was like at midnight. We chose instead to countdown at Zojo-ji temple. Every year thousands of people gather at the temple and at midnight release balloons with their New Year wishes attached. It was by far the most amazing New Year I have had. We were totalled crammed but right next to the count down clock to see in the New Year with the gongs. Zojo-ji is right next to Tokyo tower so that too was lit up like a Christmas tree.
After the celebrations calmed down we headed back to Shibuya for more karaoke while we waited until dawn. So after yet more Toto and other cheesy 80’s classics it was time to go back to Tokyo Tower for the sunrise. Somehow Joss and I managed to make it inside to join in with the masses for the first sunrise of the New Year. In Japan this is one of most important traditions of the New Year and it was really special. Everyone got really excited as the sun appeared in the sky and it came with a spectacular view of the city and I finally got to see Fuji-san.
Joss and I finally returned to base at 9:30. I consider that a New Year seized.
~~~
Although we had not quite recovered we managed to gather enough strength to get up again and go back to Shibuya for dinner. We then split up and Joss and Penny went shopping while Joe and I attempted find some where to watch Avatar in 3D. This became the biggest mission of all. We had to head all the way to Shinjuku to find a cinema showing the film in English and 3D. We nearly missed it after being misdirected, but we were both determined to see it on the big screen and in 3D otherwise I would have never have forgiven myself.
It ended up being the most expensive movie I have ever watched in my life. The tickets alone were ¥2000 or R200 (so I never want to ever here anymore complying about Ster Kinekor, R60 is nothing) and then because the trains stop running at 12 we had to get a taxi home which cost another ¥3800.
But I am glad I did it. It really was a fantastic way to end one of best New Year adventures ever.
Saturday 2nd January – home time
All I did really was catch my train back. Though what makes this remarkable was that my shink arrived in Kokura LATE. I should have had 10 minutes to catch the Sonic back to Kitsuki but when I get there it was already 5 minutes passed before I realised my train had left. Though as it turned out my train didn’t even come. There was an accident somewhere along the line – from what I could gather with broken English and my Japanese – and I would have to wait until I could get another one. Though if I had listened to the first person I spoke to I would probably still be there.
I ended up waiting for 2 hours on the platform for a train back to Kitsuki. It was freezing and all I can say is thank heavens for video iPods. The wait in the cold was worth it though as I was one of the few people to get a seat by the time the train finally arrived. The cold and I are finally making peace. I then nearly missed my stop as they were not displaying the stops and I had to listen to the Japanese announcements and then guess. It was karma as such things are unheard of.
Despite all the drama and adventure it was nice to get back to my own floor, but I am just glad I finally got to do Tokyo and in the best possible company.
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