This week I experienced my most terrifying and nerve destroying test in Japan – my Japanese drivers license. I was scared and terrified going in, what with the masses of personal experience stories from previous JETs swirling about in my head like a typhoon.
“I failed 7 times and it took all my leave.”
“I failed because I forgot to check my mirror once.”
“I was perfect. They failed me cause I smiled.”
Like most driving tests it doesn’t test your ability to drive, it tests your ability to pass a test. So those of us unfortunate foreigners that have to take the test instead of just get our license translated, are subjected to sometimes days of stress, panic and, of course, the ritual humiliation of the traffic department.
Firstly, I should have done this when I arrived instead of waiting. That way I could have planned my nenkyu. My biggest fear of all this was not having to pay ridiculous amounts of money to do the test, or driving 2 hours to Oita, it was the slow annihilation of my leave. I could see my holiday back to SA getting shorter and shorter. Anywho, it came to the point where I could avoid it no longer.
My poor supervisor spent ages on the phone making reservations, organising translations and setting up my test date. I would have to go to the centre and complete an interview, eye test, short written test and finally the driving part. I had hoped to go for some lessons before hand so as to get to know the course, which I already had memorised. This idea came to a grinding, clutch burning stop when the price tag turned out to be ¥30 000 – or R2800. I chose rather to fail 7 times than pay that amount to be told when to yoshi.
Once I had my test date it was time to study. I Hermione-d the test. I can still recite the whole thing in my head. This of course would be half the battle – if you were in the middle of a food fight. The driving part of the test takes place on a closed circuit. So it in no way simulates the real world, which affirms my belief you are passing a test not proving you can drive.
The horrific day finally arrived. I drove to Oita and got there in time to walk the course. This gave me some confidence. The crank (two scary 90 degree turns) looked intimidating but otherwise I was feeling good.
Interview time.
I ended up being interviewed by the nicest guy, who taught me some secrets of the South African driving license and confirmed that it was in fact legal. He scrutinised every single stamp in my passport to make sure that I had been in South Africa 3 months after obtaining my license.
I passed everything; I am a stressor so I eve panicked about the written test. I only needed to get 7 out of 10 to pass, but who wants to fail that. I could have passed using common sense but I was glad to have my copy of the Japanese road rules – even if it was just to see the interesting diagrams and guides to the impact of driving your car off a 60-story building.
So after the nice man had finished telling me not to be nervous and how good it would feel when I actually passed the test, it was time to wait. And it is the waiting that gets you.
Now the centre is a nice new building – concrete and glass etc – and reminds me of your general international airports with all the same signage, typefaces and people milling about. Only it has none of the exciting holiday feeling and all the anticipation of a lobotomy with a chainsaw. The worst thing was this warning buzzer that randomly went off. I swear it was stolen from Jurassic Park. Every time I heard it I had images of T-Rexs being let loose from their cages. I think it is all part of the plan to destroy your confidence.
Then I met Kai, a Japanese guy who was doing his test for the 6th time. If you are doing our test then avoid these people! While it was nice to ask him some questions, he proceeded to terrorise me his own personal tragedies and insights into which instructors are nice and which are mean, who else was trying for the 7th time. Eventually he left to do his test and I was alone in the waiting room attempting to regain my composure.
I found half of it. Or at least the shell, which rapidly cracked like a plumber bending over once I got into the car. Now if I had done this test in Eeyore or Buta it would have been okay. Instead they insist you drive these large mafia-esque black taxi things that turn like an oil tanker.
The examiner knew I had not driven the course before and took me around once, showing me what to do. Then it was my turn. It’s much easier in your head. It went reasonably well to be honest – for a first attempt. In the end it was the crank that got me. I was not prepared for that, and as I did in my first driving test ever I hit a pole. Automatic fail.
In the end the examiner said I managed well, despite not having driven the course before. I just needed to do my checks sooner. He did suggest that I take some lessons but when I told them the price, even he agreed it was pricey.
Luckily in order to take the test again I just had to show up at the centre. They keep all the paper work and details for you – our traffic department could take lessons – so no 6-month waiting list. In fact the test more people in the space of 2 hours than the traffic departments manage in a day.
So after admitting defeat I decided the best thing to do was to return the next day and try again while the horror was fresh in my mind.
Day 2 and after donning my lucky ducky undies, I sheepishly showed up at the centre again to be greeted by the nice man who had nothing but sympathy for my plight. After filling in all the necessaries I began the waiting game again and was kept company by Kai and the Chinese couple. Again.
Kai didn’t help my reoccurring nerves by telling me how he did the course perfectly the day before but the examiner failed him anyway. I learned later that he had also argued with the examiner over his test which any decent troll of the interwebs will tell you is worse than crashing the car. Everything I read said to be polite and as gracious and as apologetic as possible for every mistake. Use your “onegaishimasu” and “arigatou.” A strategy, which I maintain, was key to my eventual success – that and, of course, doing the confidence dance.
Unless you are a fan of Cougar Town you will not be acquainted with the confidence dance. It works. Before my test I headed to the empty bathrooms and proceeded to find my courage by doing the confidence dance in front of the mirror. I just changed my mind soundtrack to safety dance for the occasion and I will swear by it in the future.
Although I was empowered by my mirror moves there were still some nerves. No one had passed yet that day and it was looking bleak. Though in retrospect this may have meant they had quotas to fill.
My name was then called by the examiner that Kai had labelled as “mean.” Though by now I was starting to doubt the validity of his advice. My legs shook on the clutch like Lindsey Lohan after 10 minutes without a drink. I am still not sure how I got around the course. All I know is that I got through the crank and only had to reverse once. I didn’t miss any checks and I managed to keep to the left. I honestly am not sure, and don’t quite believe, that I passed.
As I pulled up to park, I was already trying to think of ways to save my precious leave without having my holiday home reduced to a week. It was at this point that the examiner said “congratulations”, shook my hand and some things in Japanese about me please driving safely in future. I did say thank you but I wasn’t too sure I was hearing him right and questioned him repeatedly to make sure. He just smiled and laughed at my incessant thanks and need for affirmation. I also had to hold on to all my Japanese-ness not to hug him. In fact the nice man up stairs even asked if I had, after congratulation me on my success.
Everyone was so nice about me passing, even the lady at the till said congratulations. They were so pleasant that driving home I felt as though I had to make them proud and prove my worth as a good driving citizen, which I will endeavour to do.
After another 90 minute wait I was handed my brand new, shiny license that comes standard with awful photograph of no choice. I was still terrified however that on my way out that they would tell me they made a mistake and take it away. In fact I am still waiting for that call.
Advice for future victims:
1. Be nice. Be polite. Be humble and practice grovelling. Make friends.
2. Know the test. Let it be the last thing you think about at night. Drive it in your head.
3. Be overly cautious – even if the examiner laughs at you for checking under your car from every angle.
4. Wear your lucky undies and do your confidence dance. Never underestimate the power of the force.
--
Emma Gernetzky
http://jetsetducky.blogspot.com/
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Monday, June 7, 2010
Aloe Aloe
Don't get me wrong, I love aloes. As a wild coast local aloe practically runs in my blood.
I love it in my sunburn soother and body products. I just don't think it has a place in my chocolate.
I love it in my sunburn soother and body products. I just don't think it has a place in my chocolate.
Aloe yoghurt
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Maneki Neko Dakku まねきねこダック
Aflac ad
Music video
Kitkat Diaries
What should I eat?
My hunt has lead me across the country, scouring combinis and omiyage stands from Hokkaido to Okinawa. This is what I have found so far:
Framboise
Caramel Macchiato McFlurry &Apple
Strawberry
Carrot and Apple
Jasmine Tea
Inako Ohagi (sticky rice and bean jam)
Ginger Ale
Spring Strawberry
Milk Coffee
Sakura Macha
Raspberry & Passion Fruit
Semi-sweet
Chocolate Cookie
Vanilla Cookie
Lamune/Ramune
Mango Pudding
Orange
Rose
Royal Milk Tea
Calpis Soda
Caramel Pudding
Banana
Citrus & Chili
Purple Sweet Potato
Soy Sauce
Hiroshima Citrus Blend
Strawberry Cheesecake 
Wasabi
Hokkaido Melon
Hokkaido Corn
Sweet Potato
Kinako (Soybean flour)
Macha (Green tea)
Caramel Pudding
Banana
Halloween Caramel
Rilakkuma Strawberry
Cayenne Pepper
Little Strawberry
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Blog update 1.0
Since my last post things have been pretty quite, asides from the deluge of guests that have been around. I guess that once you start to get used to your surroundings you start to lose sight of the strange and wonderful things around you – and you don’t get stranger or weirder than Japan. So from now on I am going to try and share the more interesting or ridiculous sides of my country that continue to astonish me.
This is a current ad campaign that I saw in Tokyo. It was everywhere – there must have been 5 billboard campaigns in Shibuya crossing alone.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
My Winter Wonderland
After a 3:30am start, 3 different forms of transportation and 3 different prefectures I and a group of other Oita ALTs arrived in Japan’s northern most prefecture – Hokkaido. And, despite the ridiculous temperature, all I can say now is that I wish I had been placed there.
Sapporo is just covered in snow, and it was everywhere. It is not just snow lying in patches but the countryside is just white. From when we landed to when we left the world was just a mix of white and blue.
After a 2-hour flight we arrived in Sapporo for the last few days of the Yukimatsuri or snow festival. After a lunch of local specialty, that being Miso Ramen, we spent the afternoon in the city enjoying the snow sculptures and, of course, the festival food. The sculptures are pretty incredible. They are made entirely of snow. At first the build giant frames and from there they sculpt out the snow. The most incredible one was a copy of Dresden cathedral, which was 26m high.
Supper was yet another Hokkaido specialty known as Genghis Khan (which I am sure I spelt wrong)s, or lamb. Each table has a grill that you use to cook your own giant plate of sliced meat (and the odd vegetables). The restaurant we were at was at the Sapporo beer factory, which made for an interesting evening. The lamb was really delicious, and I probably ate more meat at that meal than I have since coming to Japan, the only down side being that everything I was wearing smelt of grilled meat for the rest of the trip.
From there we had to catch a 2 hour bus ride to Niseko and one of the top 10 skiing resorts in the world. Niseko is basically a collection of ski resorts surrounding Mount Yotei, which is often called the Mt Fuji of Hokkaido.
We couldn’t see much as it was dark but the amount of snow was phenomenal. And once I actually got outside the next morning I could see the full extent of the snow they are used to. Giant walls of snow line the roads so that it is higher than me in most places. As it falls over winter it just piles up until it is higher than the cars and house are just layered in it. And the best thing is that it is just so clean. I thought that Switzerland was beautiful but the Swiss have nothing on Hokkaido. It is just clean and white and beautiful.
But what makes the snow so special is that it is the best kind of powder – soft and with a very low water content. So much so, that it is just swept off carpets and clothing so it is not as though everything is damp all that time. This makes it some of the finest skiing in the world, and there really is nothing like skiing though the fine powder snow of Niseko. This makes it tough to have snowball fights, as it is very difficult to compact and form a snowball, it also takes a lot of snow to get a decent sized weapon. In the video below my ski buddy Javi is demonstrating how soft it is by kicking a snowball, which just explodes in a shower of powder (I am not sure what happened to the sound and his explanation).
I spent most of my days on skis, and even this morning I was finding that I am still standing with my legs bent instead of upright. Friday was spent in some refresher beginner’s lessons with Javi – who was amazing and picked it up in one day. Our instructor Tim (Aussie) was incredibly impressed. It came back to me pretty quickly and by the end of the day the two of us had mastered the baby slopes. It was just the 2 of us in the class so we were able to get some really good teaching. Strangely most of the resort employees seemed to be Aussies, which you wouldn’t naturally associate with snow. And the best bit was the lack of button lifts, which in themselves can take a day to master, and instead we had conveyor belts to take us up hill.
After an intense day of skiing a couple of us headed to an outdoor onsen for some muscle relief. And there is no better way to relax than to lie in hot water whilst surrounded by snow.
Saturday I was on my own. So I joined some other folk in attempt to find some more challenging slopes on the other side of the mountain. First up was Kings 1 – which was a bit nerve wracking at first since I have yet to master “steep”, yet I survived and didn’t crash into anyone. In fact I managed to go a whole 2 days without maiming anyone at all – including myself. We then discovered the family slope, which was perfect for our abilities. It was a much longer run than the baby slopes so it didn’t feel as though most of our time was being spent on the magic carpets and you were actually skiing. The only problem in that it was the family slope so it was rather crowded and required more dodging abilities. But by the end I had at least mastered the chair lift and didn’t fall getting off.
Lunch was more miso ramen and then back to the lifts. I was convinced by Elaine to join her in attempting on the long beginner runs. I was a bit apprehensive, as my instructor had warned me that there would be tricky bits but I wasn’t willing to give up the chance to go up the mountain even if I had to be carried down in a stretcher. In fact the day before I had watched someone being brought down the mountain in a red body bag. They were fine, but being completely zipped up like that is a pretty morbid sight.
The first half of the journey down was fine. It was really smooth and easy and I even came to a stop in places due to the lack of gradient. The second half was a bit trickier. There was indeed a very steep section that I chose to walk down which was a great way to appreciate the scenery that you don’t get to see when trying not to crash. Unfortunately, by that time it had started to snow quite heavily and I didn’t have proper goggles so my glasses were misting up and I was blind with or without them so getting to the bottom was a bit trough but I made it in the end and it was well worth it, even if I did have to trudge through 2 ft of snow.
Sunday was spent sleeping on various forms of transport. An after nearly not getting a flight home we returned home. And it is strange but Kunisaki seems so much colder that Hokkaido, though I think it was due to the fact that everywhere we went was actually sophisticated enough to have central heating. I wore less clothing in those 4 days than I had been wearing in the Southern winter. Central heating and other heat retaining measures are still not that common though I hear that the demand is growing.
So by the end I was exhausted and had the skiing aches and bruises. It would have just been nice to stay one or two more days since I was finally getting into the rhythm. I would really recommend it as a skiing destination. Switzerland was great but this place is just much more special. It certainly seemed less crowded and the scenery and snow is reason enough – it is the stuff you dream about.
One thing that we all noticed was that we didn’t feel as though we were in Japan, rather that we were mixing with other tourists that included Japanese people. It is hard to explain but it was nice to feel international again instead of just a foreigner in Japan.
So if anyone is interested I am already planning my return trip next year.
Sapporo is just covered in snow, and it was everywhere. It is not just snow lying in patches but the countryside is just white. From when we landed to when we left the world was just a mix of white and blue.
After a 2-hour flight we arrived in Sapporo for the last few days of the Yukimatsuri or snow festival. After a lunch of local specialty, that being Miso Ramen, we spent the afternoon in the city enjoying the snow sculptures and, of course, the festival food. The sculptures are pretty incredible. They are made entirely of snow. At first the build giant frames and from there they sculpt out the snow. The most incredible one was a copy of Dresden cathedral, which was 26m high.
Supper was yet another Hokkaido specialty known as Genghis Khan (which I am sure I spelt wrong)s, or lamb. Each table has a grill that you use to cook your own giant plate of sliced meat (and the odd vegetables). The restaurant we were at was at the Sapporo beer factory, which made for an interesting evening. The lamb was really delicious, and I probably ate more meat at that meal than I have since coming to Japan, the only down side being that everything I was wearing smelt of grilled meat for the rest of the trip.
From there we had to catch a 2 hour bus ride to Niseko and one of the top 10 skiing resorts in the world. Niseko is basically a collection of ski resorts surrounding Mount Yotei, which is often called the Mt Fuji of Hokkaido.
We couldn’t see much as it was dark but the amount of snow was phenomenal. And once I actually got outside the next morning I could see the full extent of the snow they are used to. Giant walls of snow line the roads so that it is higher than me in most places. As it falls over winter it just piles up until it is higher than the cars and house are just layered in it. And the best thing is that it is just so clean. I thought that Switzerland was beautiful but the Swiss have nothing on Hokkaido. It is just clean and white and beautiful.
But what makes the snow so special is that it is the best kind of powder – soft and with a very low water content. So much so, that it is just swept off carpets and clothing so it is not as though everything is damp all that time. This makes it some of the finest skiing in the world, and there really is nothing like skiing though the fine powder snow of Niseko. This makes it tough to have snowball fights, as it is very difficult to compact and form a snowball, it also takes a lot of snow to get a decent sized weapon. In the video below my ski buddy Javi is demonstrating how soft it is by kicking a snowball, which just explodes in a shower of powder (I am not sure what happened to the sound and his explanation).
I spent most of my days on skis, and even this morning I was finding that I am still standing with my legs bent instead of upright. Friday was spent in some refresher beginner’s lessons with Javi – who was amazing and picked it up in one day. Our instructor Tim (Aussie) was incredibly impressed. It came back to me pretty quickly and by the end of the day the two of us had mastered the baby slopes. It was just the 2 of us in the class so we were able to get some really good teaching. Strangely most of the resort employees seemed to be Aussies, which you wouldn’t naturally associate with snow. And the best bit was the lack of button lifts, which in themselves can take a day to master, and instead we had conveyor belts to take us up hill.
After an intense day of skiing a couple of us headed to an outdoor onsen for some muscle relief. And there is no better way to relax than to lie in hot water whilst surrounded by snow.
Saturday I was on my own. So I joined some other folk in attempt to find some more challenging slopes on the other side of the mountain. First up was Kings 1 – which was a bit nerve wracking at first since I have yet to master “steep”, yet I survived and didn’t crash into anyone. In fact I managed to go a whole 2 days without maiming anyone at all – including myself. We then discovered the family slope, which was perfect for our abilities. It was a much longer run than the baby slopes so it didn’t feel as though most of our time was being spent on the magic carpets and you were actually skiing. The only problem in that it was the family slope so it was rather crowded and required more dodging abilities. But by the end I had at least mastered the chair lift and didn’t fall getting off.
Lunch was more miso ramen and then back to the lifts. I was convinced by Elaine to join her in attempting on the long beginner runs. I was a bit apprehensive, as my instructor had warned me that there would be tricky bits but I wasn’t willing to give up the chance to go up the mountain even if I had to be carried down in a stretcher. In fact the day before I had watched someone being brought down the mountain in a red body bag. They were fine, but being completely zipped up like that is a pretty morbid sight.
The first half of the journey down was fine. It was really smooth and easy and I even came to a stop in places due to the lack of gradient. The second half was a bit trickier. There was indeed a very steep section that I chose to walk down which was a great way to appreciate the scenery that you don’t get to see when trying not to crash. Unfortunately, by that time it had started to snow quite heavily and I didn’t have proper goggles so my glasses were misting up and I was blind with or without them so getting to the bottom was a bit trough but I made it in the end and it was well worth it, even if I did have to trudge through 2 ft of snow.
Sunday was spent sleeping on various forms of transport. An after nearly not getting a flight home we returned home. And it is strange but Kunisaki seems so much colder that Hokkaido, though I think it was due to the fact that everywhere we went was actually sophisticated enough to have central heating. I wore less clothing in those 4 days than I had been wearing in the Southern winter. Central heating and other heat retaining measures are still not that common though I hear that the demand is growing.
So by the end I was exhausted and had the skiing aches and bruises. It would have just been nice to stay one or two more days since I was finally getting into the rhythm. I would really recommend it as a skiing destination. Switzerland was great but this place is just much more special. It certainly seemed less crowded and the scenery and snow is reason enough – it is the stuff you dream about.
One thing that we all noticed was that we didn’t feel as though we were in Japan, rather that we were mixing with other tourists that included Japanese people. It is hard to explain but it was nice to feel international again instead of just a foreigner in Japan.
So if anyone is interested I am already planning my return trip next year.
Monday, January 4, 2010
My New Year
New Year is one of the few times that I get forced leave so you have to make the most of it. I was, by the time winter hit, desperate to go home to SA but I just couldn’t bring myself to pay R35 000 for a ticket. So I had to settle with spending New Year in Tokyo, not quite South Africa but it had to do – and at least I was in excellent South African company.
Saturday 26th December – Christmas
Despite all my planning and best efforts, including booking a later train, I only made it to Kitsuki station with 3 minutes to spare. I think I had over packed a bit, though in true Rhodent fashion much of it was a selection of the best South African wine I could find in my town.
After taking the Sonic from Kitsuki to Kokura I caught the Nozomi to Tokyo station. I love taking the trains. Asides from the small inconvenience of not having a place to stash your luggage it is the nicest way to travel. It is fast and comfortable and I have never slept so well on public transport. And, unlike flying you actually get to see the scenery. It is pure fallacy that you don’t get to see the countryside. In fact I would say you get to see more of it – just really quickly. Sadly it was dark by the time I got into the greater Tokyo area so I missed Fuji-san.
I was met at Tokyo station by Joe, a fellow Cape Town dweller who my travel mate on my flight to Japan, who then took me back to Shirokana dai where we would spend our first few nights. I was greeted at my accommodation with the small of roasting chicken – it was wonderful. Joss, my little saffer sister and Penny (Joe’s wife) had spent the day preparing a belated Christmas dinner – complete with roasted veggies, carrots and a salad that included feta cheese. It was the best meal that I have had since coming to Japan. They really went to a lot of effort as it is a mission to find a whole chicken in Japan.
The rest of the evening was just a blur of food, presents and German and South African wine. We also took the opportunity to watch actual television – just like Christmas at home. It was just so nice to be back in South African company with people who speak your language and understand what you mean when you say braai or robot. As Joss kept saying the whole holiday “Ons moet n ander taal praat” as the two of us proceeded to butcher the Afrikaans language.
Sunday 27th December - Shibuya & Harajuku
It had been decided that this would not be a hectic, mad rush of a holiday and that we would rather take it easy in Tokyo. So no getting up early to catch the train or mad attempts to fit everything in. So Sunday only really began at about 10 with a really late breakfast.
It was then time for our alternative tour of Tokyo as guided by Joss. We started off at Shibuya at the world famous statue of Hachiko. Hachiko is the Greyfriars Bobby of Japan who waited at the station for his master every night for 10 years. The statute dates back to 1936 and last year his story was made into a movie starring Richard Gear (though I have an inkling it was only “loosely” based on the real story). This is one of the favourite meeting places in Tokyo, though it still can be a mission to find the people you are looking for, as Shibuya is just so busy. In fact it is one of the busiest places on earth. Thousands of people cross Shibuya crossing on a daily basis to get to and from the station. Even at night it is just a mass of people. It is truly fantastic.
We then made our way through all the shops and side streets towards Harajuku. Penny, Joe and I were just so lucky to have Joss who pretty much owns the Tokyo. It is really nice to walk Tokyo but it does help if you have someone who knows where they are going and I am still insanely jealous of her placement in Tochigi.
Harajuku was something else. We took ages walking down Takeshita-dori which is an alley filled with lots of tiny shops. No Louis Vuitton or Channel here. It is the centre of Tokyo’s teen culture and rather alternative, so we witness to some of the crazy aspects of Japan. We were a bit late but we did get to see one or two Harajuku girls and a couple of the Elvis impersonators but didn’t see them perform.
So after an evening of meandering and shopping, we grabbed a crepe and headed back to the house.
Monday 28th December – Senso-ji Temple & Akihabara
Penny and I started the day off bravely with a trip to the hairdressers. Yet again I had to break out my best charades skills to explain what I wanted. Though I still maintain that East London is the best place in the world to get a hair cut. It was actually quite reasonable for Japan – even in comparison to the crazy prices that Cape Town hairdressers feel they are justified in charging – and it included a head massage. The cut wasn’t too bad and it should hold out till I get home in July. They just have a habit, as Joss puts it, of blow-drying western hair in a style that would have been acceptable in the 80’s. It is just accepted that it is going to be easier to have long hair in Japan.
After a lunch of udon and tempura we made our way Senso-ji Temple, the most sacred temple in Tokyo. Sadly it was being renovated so we couldn’t see the main hall in all its splendour. Though the 5–story pagoda and Nakamise-dori still made it worth the visit. I was a bit worried about my fortune I received – though it was a bit better than Joss’, which was the “last and final” fortune. Mine was just bad. What happens is that after a donation of ¥100 you get to shake a box and pull out a numbered stick. You then take your fortune from the same numbered draw. This was mine (and in case you were thinking of commenting about the spelling and/or grammar this was is in fact an accurate transcription) :
No. 77 BAD FORTUNE
Everything stay and stick without progress. Even if you want to let other people know your name or try to get good fortune, never desire what beyond your control.
It is real hard to cross, on the boat, a pid and high wave is on your way.
Although your request seem to be granted, by enormous, barrier, your goal is far away like the earth to the sky.
* Your request will not be granted. * The patient is hard to get well. * The lost article will not be found. *The person you wait for doesn’t come. * Building a new house and removal are both bad. *To start a trip is no good. *Marriage of any kind or new employment are both bad.
So it is good to know all this now before I build my mansion in Camps Bay or plan my trip to the moon. I am also not sure what they mean by marriage of any kind…
Akihabara was our next destination. This is Tokyo’s electronics district, which developed out of the ruins of WW2. It is also otaku (easily identified by their backpacks and plaid shirts) central and we visited a 6-story manga fanatic’s paradise. The area surrounding the station is just a blaze of colourful lights and shops selling electronics.
Tuesday 29th December – Kamakura Town & Yokohama
We decided to head out of Tokyo to Yokohama and Kamakura town. I love Japan’s train system and if you ever find yourself in Tokyo then get a suika – it makes life much easier and if you hide it in your gloves you can confuse the station guards by swiping you hand.
Anywho Kamakura is now my favourite place in Japan. It is just the most wonderful town and I would like to go back and see more. It was Japan’s capital from 1185 – 1333 though I beginning to realise that EVERYWHERE has been Japan’s capital at some point. The life span of Japan’s capitals seems to be a kin to that of the fame of UK reality TV stars – and sooner or later everyone gets a chance. Regardless, Kamakura is worth the visit and I didn’t spend nearly enough time there. I really loved the tiny electric train that runs through the town.
Kamakura has over 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist temples as well as (according to my Kyoto-sensei) the biggest bronze Buddha in Japan. The Daibutsu, as it is known, was cast in 1252 and has survived every possible form of natural disaster (including Americans). And for a mere R2 you can go inside and admire the technologically advanced (for the time) casting techniques.
From Kamakura we stopped over in Yokohama for dinner in China Town – and it is amazing how you could tell the difference. Almost every restaurant window had displays of the different size portions of shark fin soup, though it did not inspire me to try it. We ate at one of restaurants down one of the many alleys, where Joss and I were robbed of our dumplings. The food was really good and I am pleased to say they I did not have sweet and sour pork.
Next on the tour was the Cosmo Clock 21 the largest Ferris wheel in Japan and allegedly the world. It was a bit expensive but worth it to see the night lights of Yokohama. We also rode the rollercoaster, which Joss and I just laughed through, though I am still not sure exactly what was so funny. Though the best bit of that ride was the plunge into the tunnel.
Wednesday 30th December - Comiket
One of the best things about my trip to Tokyo was that we really did a combination of things. To truly visit Japan you have to explore all of its many facets, including the bizarre and alternative. You will get really bored if you spend the entire time visiting only temples and shrines. Sure, you need to visit some but Japan is much more diverse and interesting, and you can’t ignore the popular culture. So Wednesday was spent at Comiket also know as the Comic Market. This is was Comic Con is to comic book fanatics and Star Trek conventions are to Trekkies.
We met up with Tuan aka sunshine, and made our way along with the rest of Tokyo to Tokyo Big Site. This is in Odaiba near Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo’s only beach. It was incredible just due to the masses of people that were coming and going. At one point, we had to join this circulating sea of people and just move in a circle until we hit the exit like salmon. It seemed like the only way to get anyway was to join a stream and hope that you got where you wanted to go.
The exhibition halls were also packed with displays. Comiket is for fans who want to display there own, privately produced manga, fanfic and merchandise. Everything is divided into sections and there was even one area dedicated to cat lovers. We didn’t make it to the commercial hall, as we took one look at the crazy queue and decided it wasn’t work it.
Though by far the best bit was the cosplay square, where fans dress up as their favourite characters and pose for photographs. Some of the costumes are just astounding in terms of the detail. Tuan was particularly good at harassing the cosplayers into posing with his Springbokkie plushy. Cosplay isn’t really accepted in Japan – much like many other youth culture movements – and it is a crazy contrast to the usual rigid, formal norms of their society.
Dinner was eaten in Shibuya and followed with 3 hours of traditional Japanese entertainment – karaoke. It really is a blast, though it depends on whom you are with, and really there is nothing better than blasting out the National Anthem after a rousing, rendition of Toto’s Africa (I think we scared our 2 American guests). It fact it could almost have been a castle advert.
Friday 31st December – 1st January 2010 - New Year’s Eve & New Year’s Day
In preparation for New Year’s Eve we spent the day at the flat relaxing and building up some strength – and considering how our night ended up we needed it.
Tuan joined us at 6 and we had our starters, which included some Saffer original springbokkies courtesy of Joss whilst listening to a SA playlist, which consisted of Mango Groove and Johnnie C amongst others. We then reminisced by playing Nando’s ads and Whackhead pranks before heading back to Shibuya to meet the American at the dog.
Shibuya was packed with people waiting to see in the New Year, and we were there early so I can’t imagine what it was like at midnight. We chose instead to countdown at Zojo-ji temple. Every year thousands of people gather at the temple and at midnight release balloons with their New Year wishes attached. It was by far the most amazing New Year I have had. We were totalled crammed but right next to the count down clock to see in the New Year with the gongs. Zojo-ji is right next to Tokyo tower so that too was lit up like a Christmas tree.
After the celebrations calmed down we headed back to Shibuya for more karaoke while we waited until dawn. So after yet more Toto and other cheesy 80’s classics it was time to go back to Tokyo Tower for the sunrise. Somehow Joss and I managed to make it inside to join in with the masses for the first sunrise of the New Year. In Japan this is one of most important traditions of the New Year and it was really special. Everyone got really excited as the sun appeared in the sky and it came with a spectacular view of the city and I finally got to see Fuji-san.
Joss and I finally returned to base at 9:30. I consider that a New Year seized.
Although we had not quite recovered we managed to gather enough strength to get up again and go back to Shibuya for dinner. We then split up and Joss and Penny went shopping while Joe and I attempted find some where to watch Avatar in 3D. This became the biggest mission of all. We had to head all the way to Shinjuku to find a cinema showing the film in English and 3D. We nearly missed it after being misdirected, but we were both determined to see it on the big screen and in 3D otherwise I would have never have forgiven myself.
It ended up being the most expensive movie I have ever watched in my life. The tickets alone were ¥2000 or R200 (so I never want to ever here anymore complying about Ster Kinekor, R60 is nothing) and then because the trains stop running at 12 we had to get a taxi home which cost another ¥3800.
But I am glad I did it. It really was a fantastic way to end one of best New Year adventures ever.
Saturday 2nd January – home time
All I did really was catch my train back. Though what makes this remarkable was that my shink arrived in Kokura LATE. I should have had 10 minutes to catch the Sonic back to Kitsuki but when I get there it was already 5 minutes passed before I realised my train had left. Though as it turned out my train didn’t even come. There was an accident somewhere along the line – from what I could gather with broken English and my Japanese – and I would have to wait until I could get another one. Though if I had listened to the first person I spoke to I would probably still be there.
I ended up waiting for 2 hours on the platform for a train back to Kitsuki. It was freezing and all I can say is thank heavens for video iPods. The wait in the cold was worth it though as I was one of the few people to get a seat by the time the train finally arrived. The cold and I are finally making peace. I then nearly missed my stop as they were not displaying the stops and I had to listen to the Japanese announcements and then guess. It was karma as such things are unheard of.
Despite all the drama and adventure it was nice to get back to my own floor, but I am just glad I finally got to do Tokyo and in the best possible company.
Saturday 26th December – Christmas
Despite all my planning and best efforts, including booking a later train, I only made it to Kitsuki station with 3 minutes to spare. I think I had over packed a bit, though in true Rhodent fashion much of it was a selection of the best South African wine I could find in my town.
After taking the Sonic from Kitsuki to Kokura I caught the Nozomi to Tokyo station. I love taking the trains. Asides from the small inconvenience of not having a place to stash your luggage it is the nicest way to travel. It is fast and comfortable and I have never slept so well on public transport. And, unlike flying you actually get to see the scenery. It is pure fallacy that you don’t get to see the countryside. In fact I would say you get to see more of it – just really quickly. Sadly it was dark by the time I got into the greater Tokyo area so I missed Fuji-san.
I was met at Tokyo station by Joe, a fellow Cape Town dweller who my travel mate on my flight to Japan, who then took me back to Shirokana dai where we would spend our first few nights. I was greeted at my accommodation with the small of roasting chicken – it was wonderful. Joss, my little saffer sister and Penny (Joe’s wife) had spent the day preparing a belated Christmas dinner – complete with roasted veggies, carrots and a salad that included feta cheese. It was the best meal that I have had since coming to Japan. They really went to a lot of effort as it is a mission to find a whole chicken in Japan.
The rest of the evening was just a blur of food, presents and German and South African wine. We also took the opportunity to watch actual television – just like Christmas at home. It was just so nice to be back in South African company with people who speak your language and understand what you mean when you say braai or robot. As Joss kept saying the whole holiday “Ons moet n ander taal praat” as the two of us proceeded to butcher the Afrikaans language.
Sunday 27th December - Shibuya & Harajuku
It had been decided that this would not be a hectic, mad rush of a holiday and that we would rather take it easy in Tokyo. So no getting up early to catch the train or mad attempts to fit everything in. So Sunday only really began at about 10 with a really late breakfast.
It was then time for our alternative tour of Tokyo as guided by Joss. We started off at Shibuya at the world famous statue of Hachiko. Hachiko is the Greyfriars Bobby of Japan who waited at the station for his master every night for 10 years. The statute dates back to 1936 and last year his story was made into a movie starring Richard Gear (though I have an inkling it was only “loosely” based on the real story). This is one of the favourite meeting places in Tokyo, though it still can be a mission to find the people you are looking for, as Shibuya is just so busy. In fact it is one of the busiest places on earth. Thousands of people cross Shibuya crossing on a daily basis to get to and from the station. Even at night it is just a mass of people. It is truly fantastic.
We then made our way through all the shops and side streets towards Harajuku. Penny, Joe and I were just so lucky to have Joss who pretty much owns the Tokyo. It is really nice to walk Tokyo but it does help if you have someone who knows where they are going and I am still insanely jealous of her placement in Tochigi.
Harajuku was something else. We took ages walking down Takeshita-dori which is an alley filled with lots of tiny shops. No Louis Vuitton or Channel here. It is the centre of Tokyo’s teen culture and rather alternative, so we witness to some of the crazy aspects of Japan. We were a bit late but we did get to see one or two Harajuku girls and a couple of the Elvis impersonators but didn’t see them perform.
So after an evening of meandering and shopping, we grabbed a crepe and headed back to the house.
Monday 28th December – Senso-ji Temple & Akihabara
Penny and I started the day off bravely with a trip to the hairdressers. Yet again I had to break out my best charades skills to explain what I wanted. Though I still maintain that East London is the best place in the world to get a hair cut. It was actually quite reasonable for Japan – even in comparison to the crazy prices that Cape Town hairdressers feel they are justified in charging – and it included a head massage. The cut wasn’t too bad and it should hold out till I get home in July. They just have a habit, as Joss puts it, of blow-drying western hair in a style that would have been acceptable in the 80’s. It is just accepted that it is going to be easier to have long hair in Japan.
After a lunch of udon and tempura we made our way Senso-ji Temple, the most sacred temple in Tokyo. Sadly it was being renovated so we couldn’t see the main hall in all its splendour. Though the 5–story pagoda and Nakamise-dori still made it worth the visit. I was a bit worried about my fortune I received – though it was a bit better than Joss’, which was the “last and final” fortune. Mine was just bad. What happens is that after a donation of ¥100 you get to shake a box and pull out a numbered stick. You then take your fortune from the same numbered draw. This was mine (and in case you were thinking of commenting about the spelling and/or grammar this was is in fact an accurate transcription) :
No. 77 BAD FORTUNE
Everything stay and stick without progress. Even if you want to let other people know your name or try to get good fortune, never desire what beyond your control.
It is real hard to cross, on the boat, a pid and high wave is on your way.
Although your request seem to be granted, by enormous, barrier, your goal is far away like the earth to the sky.
* Your request will not be granted. * The patient is hard to get well. * The lost article will not be found. *The person you wait for doesn’t come. * Building a new house and removal are both bad. *To start a trip is no good. *Marriage of any kind or new employment are both bad.
So it is good to know all this now before I build my mansion in Camps Bay or plan my trip to the moon. I am also not sure what they mean by marriage of any kind…
Akihabara was our next destination. This is Tokyo’s electronics district, which developed out of the ruins of WW2. It is also otaku (easily identified by their backpacks and plaid shirts) central and we visited a 6-story manga fanatic’s paradise. The area surrounding the station is just a blaze of colourful lights and shops selling electronics.
Tuesday 29th December – Kamakura Town & Yokohama
We decided to head out of Tokyo to Yokohama and Kamakura town. I love Japan’s train system and if you ever find yourself in Tokyo then get a suika – it makes life much easier and if you hide it in your gloves you can confuse the station guards by swiping you hand.
Anywho Kamakura is now my favourite place in Japan. It is just the most wonderful town and I would like to go back and see more. It was Japan’s capital from 1185 – 1333 though I beginning to realise that EVERYWHERE has been Japan’s capital at some point. The life span of Japan’s capitals seems to be a kin to that of the fame of UK reality TV stars – and sooner or later everyone gets a chance. Regardless, Kamakura is worth the visit and I didn’t spend nearly enough time there. I really loved the tiny electric train that runs through the town.
Kamakura has over 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist temples as well as (according to my Kyoto-sensei) the biggest bronze Buddha in Japan. The Daibutsu, as it is known, was cast in 1252 and has survived every possible form of natural disaster (including Americans). And for a mere R2 you can go inside and admire the technologically advanced (for the time) casting techniques.
From Kamakura we stopped over in Yokohama for dinner in China Town – and it is amazing how you could tell the difference. Almost every restaurant window had displays of the different size portions of shark fin soup, though it did not inspire me to try it. We ate at one of restaurants down one of the many alleys, where Joss and I were robbed of our dumplings. The food was really good and I am pleased to say they I did not have sweet and sour pork.
Next on the tour was the Cosmo Clock 21 the largest Ferris wheel in Japan and allegedly the world. It was a bit expensive but worth it to see the night lights of Yokohama. We also rode the rollercoaster, which Joss and I just laughed through, though I am still not sure exactly what was so funny. Though the best bit of that ride was the plunge into the tunnel.
Wednesday 30th December - Comiket
One of the best things about my trip to Tokyo was that we really did a combination of things. To truly visit Japan you have to explore all of its many facets, including the bizarre and alternative. You will get really bored if you spend the entire time visiting only temples and shrines. Sure, you need to visit some but Japan is much more diverse and interesting, and you can’t ignore the popular culture. So Wednesday was spent at Comiket also know as the Comic Market. This is was Comic Con is to comic book fanatics and Star Trek conventions are to Trekkies.
We met up with Tuan aka sunshine, and made our way along with the rest of Tokyo to Tokyo Big Site. This is in Odaiba near Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo’s only beach. It was incredible just due to the masses of people that were coming and going. At one point, we had to join this circulating sea of people and just move in a circle until we hit the exit like salmon. It seemed like the only way to get anyway was to join a stream and hope that you got where you wanted to go.
The exhibition halls were also packed with displays. Comiket is for fans who want to display there own, privately produced manga, fanfic and merchandise. Everything is divided into sections and there was even one area dedicated to cat lovers. We didn’t make it to the commercial hall, as we took one look at the crazy queue and decided it wasn’t work it.
Though by far the best bit was the cosplay square, where fans dress up as their favourite characters and pose for photographs. Some of the costumes are just astounding in terms of the detail. Tuan was particularly good at harassing the cosplayers into posing with his Springbokkie plushy. Cosplay isn’t really accepted in Japan – much like many other youth culture movements – and it is a crazy contrast to the usual rigid, formal norms of their society.
Dinner was eaten in Shibuya and followed with 3 hours of traditional Japanese entertainment – karaoke. It really is a blast, though it depends on whom you are with, and really there is nothing better than blasting out the National Anthem after a rousing, rendition of Toto’s Africa (I think we scared our 2 American guests). It fact it could almost have been a castle advert.
Friday 31st December – 1st January 2010 - New Year’s Eve & New Year’s Day
In preparation for New Year’s Eve we spent the day at the flat relaxing and building up some strength – and considering how our night ended up we needed it.
Tuan joined us at 6 and we had our starters, which included some Saffer original springbokkies courtesy of Joss whilst listening to a SA playlist, which consisted of Mango Groove and Johnnie C amongst others. We then reminisced by playing Nando’s ads and Whackhead pranks before heading back to Shibuya to meet the American at the dog.
Shibuya was packed with people waiting to see in the New Year, and we were there early so I can’t imagine what it was like at midnight. We chose instead to countdown at Zojo-ji temple. Every year thousands of people gather at the temple and at midnight release balloons with their New Year wishes attached. It was by far the most amazing New Year I have had. We were totalled crammed but right next to the count down clock to see in the New Year with the gongs. Zojo-ji is right next to Tokyo tower so that too was lit up like a Christmas tree.
After the celebrations calmed down we headed back to Shibuya for more karaoke while we waited until dawn. So after yet more Toto and other cheesy 80’s classics it was time to go back to Tokyo Tower for the sunrise. Somehow Joss and I managed to make it inside to join in with the masses for the first sunrise of the New Year. In Japan this is one of most important traditions of the New Year and it was really special. Everyone got really excited as the sun appeared in the sky and it came with a spectacular view of the city and I finally got to see Fuji-san.
Joss and I finally returned to base at 9:30. I consider that a New Year seized.
~~~
Although we had not quite recovered we managed to gather enough strength to get up again and go back to Shibuya for dinner. We then split up and Joss and Penny went shopping while Joe and I attempted find some where to watch Avatar in 3D. This became the biggest mission of all. We had to head all the way to Shinjuku to find a cinema showing the film in English and 3D. We nearly missed it after being misdirected, but we were both determined to see it on the big screen and in 3D otherwise I would have never have forgiven myself.
It ended up being the most expensive movie I have ever watched in my life. The tickets alone were ¥2000 or R200 (so I never want to ever here anymore complying about Ster Kinekor, R60 is nothing) and then because the trains stop running at 12 we had to get a taxi home which cost another ¥3800.
But I am glad I did it. It really was a fantastic way to end one of best New Year adventures ever.
Saturday 2nd January – home time
All I did really was catch my train back. Though what makes this remarkable was that my shink arrived in Kokura LATE. I should have had 10 minutes to catch the Sonic back to Kitsuki but when I get there it was already 5 minutes passed before I realised my train had left. Though as it turned out my train didn’t even come. There was an accident somewhere along the line – from what I could gather with broken English and my Japanese – and I would have to wait until I could get another one. Though if I had listened to the first person I spoke to I would probably still be there.
I ended up waiting for 2 hours on the platform for a train back to Kitsuki. It was freezing and all I can say is thank heavens for video iPods. The wait in the cold was worth it though as I was one of the few people to get a seat by the time the train finally arrived. The cold and I are finally making peace. I then nearly missed my stop as they were not displaying the stops and I had to listen to the Japanese announcements and then guess. It was karma as such things are unheard of.
Despite all the drama and adventure it was nice to get back to my own floor, but I am just glad I finally got to do Tokyo and in the best possible company.
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