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Sunday, May 23, 2010
Maneki Neko Dakku まねきねこダック
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Kitkat Diaries
What should I eat?
My hunt has lead me across the country, scouring combinis and omiyage stands from Hokkaido to Okinawa. This is what I have found so far:
Framboise
Caramel Macchiato McFlurry &Apple
Strawberry
Carrot and Apple
Jasmine Tea
Inako Ohagi (sticky rice and bean jam)
Ginger Ale
Spring Strawberry
Milk Coffee
Sakura Macha
Raspberry & Passion Fruit
Semi-sweet
Chocolate Cookie
Vanilla Cookie
Lamune/Ramune
Mango Pudding
Orange
Rose
Royal Milk Tea
Calpis Soda
Caramel Pudding
Banana
Citrus & Chili
Purple Sweet Potato
Soy Sauce
Hiroshima Citrus Blend
Strawberry Cheesecake 
Wasabi
Hokkaido Melon
Hokkaido Corn
Sweet Potato
Kinako (Soybean flour)
Macha (Green tea)
Caramel Pudding
Banana
Halloween Caramel
Rilakkuma Strawberry
Cayenne Pepper
Little Strawberry
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Blog update 1.0
Since my last post things have been pretty quite, asides from the deluge of guests that have been around. I guess that once you start to get used to your surroundings you start to lose sight of the strange and wonderful things around you – and you don’t get stranger or weirder than Japan. So from now on I am going to try and share the more interesting or ridiculous sides of my country that continue to astonish me.
This is a current ad campaign that I saw in Tokyo. It was everywhere – there must have been 5 billboard campaigns in Shibuya crossing alone.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
My Winter Wonderland
After a 3:30am start, 3 different forms of transportation and 3 different prefectures I and a group of other Oita ALTs arrived in Japan’s northern most prefecture – Hokkaido. And, despite the ridiculous temperature, all I can say now is that I wish I had been placed there.
Sapporo is just covered in snow, and it was everywhere. It is not just snow lying in patches but the countryside is just white. From when we landed to when we left the world was just a mix of white and blue.
After a 2-hour flight we arrived in Sapporo for the last few days of the Yukimatsuri or snow festival. After a lunch of local specialty, that being Miso Ramen, we spent the afternoon in the city enjoying the snow sculptures and, of course, the festival food. The sculptures are pretty incredible. They are made entirely of snow. At first the build giant frames and from there they sculpt out the snow. The most incredible one was a copy of Dresden cathedral, which was 26m high.
Supper was yet another Hokkaido specialty known as Genghis Khan (which I am sure I spelt wrong)s, or lamb. Each table has a grill that you use to cook your own giant plate of sliced meat (and the odd vegetables). The restaurant we were at was at the Sapporo beer factory, which made for an interesting evening. The lamb was really delicious, and I probably ate more meat at that meal than I have since coming to Japan, the only down side being that everything I was wearing smelt of grilled meat for the rest of the trip.
From there we had to catch a 2 hour bus ride to Niseko and one of the top 10 skiing resorts in the world. Niseko is basically a collection of ski resorts surrounding Mount Yotei, which is often called the Mt Fuji of Hokkaido.
We couldn’t see much as it was dark but the amount of snow was phenomenal. And once I actually got outside the next morning I could see the full extent of the snow they are used to. Giant walls of snow line the roads so that it is higher than me in most places. As it falls over winter it just piles up until it is higher than the cars and house are just layered in it. And the best thing is that it is just so clean. I thought that Switzerland was beautiful but the Swiss have nothing on Hokkaido. It is just clean and white and beautiful.
But what makes the snow so special is that it is the best kind of powder – soft and with a very low water content. So much so, that it is just swept off carpets and clothing so it is not as though everything is damp all that time. This makes it some of the finest skiing in the world, and there really is nothing like skiing though the fine powder snow of Niseko. This makes it tough to have snowball fights, as it is very difficult to compact and form a snowball, it also takes a lot of snow to get a decent sized weapon. In the video below my ski buddy Javi is demonstrating how soft it is by kicking a snowball, which just explodes in a shower of powder (I am not sure what happened to the sound and his explanation).
I spent most of my days on skis, and even this morning I was finding that I am still standing with my legs bent instead of upright. Friday was spent in some refresher beginner’s lessons with Javi – who was amazing and picked it up in one day. Our instructor Tim (Aussie) was incredibly impressed. It came back to me pretty quickly and by the end of the day the two of us had mastered the baby slopes. It was just the 2 of us in the class so we were able to get some really good teaching. Strangely most of the resort employees seemed to be Aussies, which you wouldn’t naturally associate with snow. And the best bit was the lack of button lifts, which in themselves can take a day to master, and instead we had conveyor belts to take us up hill.
After an intense day of skiing a couple of us headed to an outdoor onsen for some muscle relief. And there is no better way to relax than to lie in hot water whilst surrounded by snow.
Saturday I was on my own. So I joined some other folk in attempt to find some more challenging slopes on the other side of the mountain. First up was Kings 1 – which was a bit nerve wracking at first since I have yet to master “steep”, yet I survived and didn’t crash into anyone. In fact I managed to go a whole 2 days without maiming anyone at all – including myself. We then discovered the family slope, which was perfect for our abilities. It was a much longer run than the baby slopes so it didn’t feel as though most of our time was being spent on the magic carpets and you were actually skiing. The only problem in that it was the family slope so it was rather crowded and required more dodging abilities. But by the end I had at least mastered the chair lift and didn’t fall getting off.
Lunch was more miso ramen and then back to the lifts. I was convinced by Elaine to join her in attempting on the long beginner runs. I was a bit apprehensive, as my instructor had warned me that there would be tricky bits but I wasn’t willing to give up the chance to go up the mountain even if I had to be carried down in a stretcher. In fact the day before I had watched someone being brought down the mountain in a red body bag. They were fine, but being completely zipped up like that is a pretty morbid sight.
The first half of the journey down was fine. It was really smooth and easy and I even came to a stop in places due to the lack of gradient. The second half was a bit trickier. There was indeed a very steep section that I chose to walk down which was a great way to appreciate the scenery that you don’t get to see when trying not to crash. Unfortunately, by that time it had started to snow quite heavily and I didn’t have proper goggles so my glasses were misting up and I was blind with or without them so getting to the bottom was a bit trough but I made it in the end and it was well worth it, even if I did have to trudge through 2 ft of snow.
Sunday was spent sleeping on various forms of transport. An after nearly not getting a flight home we returned home. And it is strange but Kunisaki seems so much colder that Hokkaido, though I think it was due to the fact that everywhere we went was actually sophisticated enough to have central heating. I wore less clothing in those 4 days than I had been wearing in the Southern winter. Central heating and other heat retaining measures are still not that common though I hear that the demand is growing.
So by the end I was exhausted and had the skiing aches and bruises. It would have just been nice to stay one or two more days since I was finally getting into the rhythm. I would really recommend it as a skiing destination. Switzerland was great but this place is just much more special. It certainly seemed less crowded and the scenery and snow is reason enough – it is the stuff you dream about.
One thing that we all noticed was that we didn’t feel as though we were in Japan, rather that we were mixing with other tourists that included Japanese people. It is hard to explain but it was nice to feel international again instead of just a foreigner in Japan.
So if anyone is interested I am already planning my return trip next year.
Sapporo is just covered in snow, and it was everywhere. It is not just snow lying in patches but the countryside is just white. From when we landed to when we left the world was just a mix of white and blue.
After a 2-hour flight we arrived in Sapporo for the last few days of the Yukimatsuri or snow festival. After a lunch of local specialty, that being Miso Ramen, we spent the afternoon in the city enjoying the snow sculptures and, of course, the festival food. The sculptures are pretty incredible. They are made entirely of snow. At first the build giant frames and from there they sculpt out the snow. The most incredible one was a copy of Dresden cathedral, which was 26m high.
Supper was yet another Hokkaido specialty known as Genghis Khan (which I am sure I spelt wrong)s, or lamb. Each table has a grill that you use to cook your own giant plate of sliced meat (and the odd vegetables). The restaurant we were at was at the Sapporo beer factory, which made for an interesting evening. The lamb was really delicious, and I probably ate more meat at that meal than I have since coming to Japan, the only down side being that everything I was wearing smelt of grilled meat for the rest of the trip.
From there we had to catch a 2 hour bus ride to Niseko and one of the top 10 skiing resorts in the world. Niseko is basically a collection of ski resorts surrounding Mount Yotei, which is often called the Mt Fuji of Hokkaido.
We couldn’t see much as it was dark but the amount of snow was phenomenal. And once I actually got outside the next morning I could see the full extent of the snow they are used to. Giant walls of snow line the roads so that it is higher than me in most places. As it falls over winter it just piles up until it is higher than the cars and house are just layered in it. And the best thing is that it is just so clean. I thought that Switzerland was beautiful but the Swiss have nothing on Hokkaido. It is just clean and white and beautiful.
But what makes the snow so special is that it is the best kind of powder – soft and with a very low water content. So much so, that it is just swept off carpets and clothing so it is not as though everything is damp all that time. This makes it some of the finest skiing in the world, and there really is nothing like skiing though the fine powder snow of Niseko. This makes it tough to have snowball fights, as it is very difficult to compact and form a snowball, it also takes a lot of snow to get a decent sized weapon. In the video below my ski buddy Javi is demonstrating how soft it is by kicking a snowball, which just explodes in a shower of powder (I am not sure what happened to the sound and his explanation).
I spent most of my days on skis, and even this morning I was finding that I am still standing with my legs bent instead of upright. Friday was spent in some refresher beginner’s lessons with Javi – who was amazing and picked it up in one day. Our instructor Tim (Aussie) was incredibly impressed. It came back to me pretty quickly and by the end of the day the two of us had mastered the baby slopes. It was just the 2 of us in the class so we were able to get some really good teaching. Strangely most of the resort employees seemed to be Aussies, which you wouldn’t naturally associate with snow. And the best bit was the lack of button lifts, which in themselves can take a day to master, and instead we had conveyor belts to take us up hill.
After an intense day of skiing a couple of us headed to an outdoor onsen for some muscle relief. And there is no better way to relax than to lie in hot water whilst surrounded by snow.
Saturday I was on my own. So I joined some other folk in attempt to find some more challenging slopes on the other side of the mountain. First up was Kings 1 – which was a bit nerve wracking at first since I have yet to master “steep”, yet I survived and didn’t crash into anyone. In fact I managed to go a whole 2 days without maiming anyone at all – including myself. We then discovered the family slope, which was perfect for our abilities. It was a much longer run than the baby slopes so it didn’t feel as though most of our time was being spent on the magic carpets and you were actually skiing. The only problem in that it was the family slope so it was rather crowded and required more dodging abilities. But by the end I had at least mastered the chair lift and didn’t fall getting off.
Lunch was more miso ramen and then back to the lifts. I was convinced by Elaine to join her in attempting on the long beginner runs. I was a bit apprehensive, as my instructor had warned me that there would be tricky bits but I wasn’t willing to give up the chance to go up the mountain even if I had to be carried down in a stretcher. In fact the day before I had watched someone being brought down the mountain in a red body bag. They were fine, but being completely zipped up like that is a pretty morbid sight.
The first half of the journey down was fine. It was really smooth and easy and I even came to a stop in places due to the lack of gradient. The second half was a bit trickier. There was indeed a very steep section that I chose to walk down which was a great way to appreciate the scenery that you don’t get to see when trying not to crash. Unfortunately, by that time it had started to snow quite heavily and I didn’t have proper goggles so my glasses were misting up and I was blind with or without them so getting to the bottom was a bit trough but I made it in the end and it was well worth it, even if I did have to trudge through 2 ft of snow.
Sunday was spent sleeping on various forms of transport. An after nearly not getting a flight home we returned home. And it is strange but Kunisaki seems so much colder that Hokkaido, though I think it was due to the fact that everywhere we went was actually sophisticated enough to have central heating. I wore less clothing in those 4 days than I had been wearing in the Southern winter. Central heating and other heat retaining measures are still not that common though I hear that the demand is growing.
So by the end I was exhausted and had the skiing aches and bruises. It would have just been nice to stay one or two more days since I was finally getting into the rhythm. I would really recommend it as a skiing destination. Switzerland was great but this place is just much more special. It certainly seemed less crowded and the scenery and snow is reason enough – it is the stuff you dream about.
One thing that we all noticed was that we didn’t feel as though we were in Japan, rather that we were mixing with other tourists that included Japanese people. It is hard to explain but it was nice to feel international again instead of just a foreigner in Japan.
So if anyone is interested I am already planning my return trip next year.
Monday, January 4, 2010
My New Year
New Year is one of the few times that I get forced leave so you have to make the most of it. I was, by the time winter hit, desperate to go home to SA but I just couldn’t bring myself to pay R35 000 for a ticket. So I had to settle with spending New Year in Tokyo, not quite South Africa but it had to do – and at least I was in excellent South African company.
Saturday 26th December – Christmas
Despite all my planning and best efforts, including booking a later train, I only made it to Kitsuki station with 3 minutes to spare. I think I had over packed a bit, though in true Rhodent fashion much of it was a selection of the best South African wine I could find in my town.
After taking the Sonic from Kitsuki to Kokura I caught the Nozomi to Tokyo station. I love taking the trains. Asides from the small inconvenience of not having a place to stash your luggage it is the nicest way to travel. It is fast and comfortable and I have never slept so well on public transport. And, unlike flying you actually get to see the scenery. It is pure fallacy that you don’t get to see the countryside. In fact I would say you get to see more of it – just really quickly. Sadly it was dark by the time I got into the greater Tokyo area so I missed Fuji-san.
I was met at Tokyo station by Joe, a fellow Cape Town dweller who my travel mate on my flight to Japan, who then took me back to Shirokana dai where we would spend our first few nights. I was greeted at my accommodation with the small of roasting chicken – it was wonderful. Joss, my little saffer sister and Penny (Joe’s wife) had spent the day preparing a belated Christmas dinner – complete with roasted veggies, carrots and a salad that included feta cheese. It was the best meal that I have had since coming to Japan. They really went to a lot of effort as it is a mission to find a whole chicken in Japan.
The rest of the evening was just a blur of food, presents and German and South African wine. We also took the opportunity to watch actual television – just like Christmas at home. It was just so nice to be back in South African company with people who speak your language and understand what you mean when you say braai or robot. As Joss kept saying the whole holiday “Ons moet n ander taal praat” as the two of us proceeded to butcher the Afrikaans language.
Sunday 27th December - Shibuya & Harajuku
It had been decided that this would not be a hectic, mad rush of a holiday and that we would rather take it easy in Tokyo. So no getting up early to catch the train or mad attempts to fit everything in. So Sunday only really began at about 10 with a really late breakfast.
It was then time for our alternative tour of Tokyo as guided by Joss. We started off at Shibuya at the world famous statue of Hachiko. Hachiko is the Greyfriars Bobby of Japan who waited at the station for his master every night for 10 years. The statute dates back to 1936 and last year his story was made into a movie starring Richard Gear (though I have an inkling it was only “loosely” based on the real story). This is one of the favourite meeting places in Tokyo, though it still can be a mission to find the people you are looking for, as Shibuya is just so busy. In fact it is one of the busiest places on earth. Thousands of people cross Shibuya crossing on a daily basis to get to and from the station. Even at night it is just a mass of people. It is truly fantastic.
We then made our way through all the shops and side streets towards Harajuku. Penny, Joe and I were just so lucky to have Joss who pretty much owns the Tokyo. It is really nice to walk Tokyo but it does help if you have someone who knows where they are going and I am still insanely jealous of her placement in Tochigi.
Harajuku was something else. We took ages walking down Takeshita-dori which is an alley filled with lots of tiny shops. No Louis Vuitton or Channel here. It is the centre of Tokyo’s teen culture and rather alternative, so we witness to some of the crazy aspects of Japan. We were a bit late but we did get to see one or two Harajuku girls and a couple of the Elvis impersonators but didn’t see them perform.
So after an evening of meandering and shopping, we grabbed a crepe and headed back to the house.
Monday 28th December – Senso-ji Temple & Akihabara
Penny and I started the day off bravely with a trip to the hairdressers. Yet again I had to break out my best charades skills to explain what I wanted. Though I still maintain that East London is the best place in the world to get a hair cut. It was actually quite reasonable for Japan – even in comparison to the crazy prices that Cape Town hairdressers feel they are justified in charging – and it included a head massage. The cut wasn’t too bad and it should hold out till I get home in July. They just have a habit, as Joss puts it, of blow-drying western hair in a style that would have been acceptable in the 80’s. It is just accepted that it is going to be easier to have long hair in Japan.
After a lunch of udon and tempura we made our way Senso-ji Temple, the most sacred temple in Tokyo. Sadly it was being renovated so we couldn’t see the main hall in all its splendour. Though the 5–story pagoda and Nakamise-dori still made it worth the visit. I was a bit worried about my fortune I received – though it was a bit better than Joss’, which was the “last and final” fortune. Mine was just bad. What happens is that after a donation of ¥100 you get to shake a box and pull out a numbered stick. You then take your fortune from the same numbered draw. This was mine (and in case you were thinking of commenting about the spelling and/or grammar this was is in fact an accurate transcription) :
No. 77 BAD FORTUNE
Everything stay and stick without progress. Even if you want to let other people know your name or try to get good fortune, never desire what beyond your control.
It is real hard to cross, on the boat, a pid and high wave is on your way.
Although your request seem to be granted, by enormous, barrier, your goal is far away like the earth to the sky.
* Your request will not be granted. * The patient is hard to get well. * The lost article will not be found. *The person you wait for doesn’t come. * Building a new house and removal are both bad. *To start a trip is no good. *Marriage of any kind or new employment are both bad.
So it is good to know all this now before I build my mansion in Camps Bay or plan my trip to the moon. I am also not sure what they mean by marriage of any kind…
Akihabara was our next destination. This is Tokyo’s electronics district, which developed out of the ruins of WW2. It is also otaku (easily identified by their backpacks and plaid shirts) central and we visited a 6-story manga fanatic’s paradise. The area surrounding the station is just a blaze of colourful lights and shops selling electronics.
Tuesday 29th December – Kamakura Town & Yokohama
We decided to head out of Tokyo to Yokohama and Kamakura town. I love Japan’s train system and if you ever find yourself in Tokyo then get a suika – it makes life much easier and if you hide it in your gloves you can confuse the station guards by swiping you hand.
Anywho Kamakura is now my favourite place in Japan. It is just the most wonderful town and I would like to go back and see more. It was Japan’s capital from 1185 – 1333 though I beginning to realise that EVERYWHERE has been Japan’s capital at some point. The life span of Japan’s capitals seems to be a kin to that of the fame of UK reality TV stars – and sooner or later everyone gets a chance. Regardless, Kamakura is worth the visit and I didn’t spend nearly enough time there. I really loved the tiny electric train that runs through the town.
Kamakura has over 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist temples as well as (according to my Kyoto-sensei) the biggest bronze Buddha in Japan. The Daibutsu, as it is known, was cast in 1252 and has survived every possible form of natural disaster (including Americans). And for a mere R2 you can go inside and admire the technologically advanced (for the time) casting techniques.
From Kamakura we stopped over in Yokohama for dinner in China Town – and it is amazing how you could tell the difference. Almost every restaurant window had displays of the different size portions of shark fin soup, though it did not inspire me to try it. We ate at one of restaurants down one of the many alleys, where Joss and I were robbed of our dumplings. The food was really good and I am pleased to say they I did not have sweet and sour pork.
Next on the tour was the Cosmo Clock 21 the largest Ferris wheel in Japan and allegedly the world. It was a bit expensive but worth it to see the night lights of Yokohama. We also rode the rollercoaster, which Joss and I just laughed through, though I am still not sure exactly what was so funny. Though the best bit of that ride was the plunge into the tunnel.
Wednesday 30th December - Comiket
One of the best things about my trip to Tokyo was that we really did a combination of things. To truly visit Japan you have to explore all of its many facets, including the bizarre and alternative. You will get really bored if you spend the entire time visiting only temples and shrines. Sure, you need to visit some but Japan is much more diverse and interesting, and you can’t ignore the popular culture. So Wednesday was spent at Comiket also know as the Comic Market. This is was Comic Con is to comic book fanatics and Star Trek conventions are to Trekkies.
We met up with Tuan aka sunshine, and made our way along with the rest of Tokyo to Tokyo Big Site. This is in Odaiba near Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo’s only beach. It was incredible just due to the masses of people that were coming and going. At one point, we had to join this circulating sea of people and just move in a circle until we hit the exit like salmon. It seemed like the only way to get anyway was to join a stream and hope that you got where you wanted to go.
The exhibition halls were also packed with displays. Comiket is for fans who want to display there own, privately produced manga, fanfic and merchandise. Everything is divided into sections and there was even one area dedicated to cat lovers. We didn’t make it to the commercial hall, as we took one look at the crazy queue and decided it wasn’t work it.
Though by far the best bit was the cosplay square, where fans dress up as their favourite characters and pose for photographs. Some of the costumes are just astounding in terms of the detail. Tuan was particularly good at harassing the cosplayers into posing with his Springbokkie plushy. Cosplay isn’t really accepted in Japan – much like many other youth culture movements – and it is a crazy contrast to the usual rigid, formal norms of their society.
Dinner was eaten in Shibuya and followed with 3 hours of traditional Japanese entertainment – karaoke. It really is a blast, though it depends on whom you are with, and really there is nothing better than blasting out the National Anthem after a rousing, rendition of Toto’s Africa (I think we scared our 2 American guests). It fact it could almost have been a castle advert.
Friday 31st December – 1st January 2010 - New Year’s Eve & New Year’s Day
In preparation for New Year’s Eve we spent the day at the flat relaxing and building up some strength – and considering how our night ended up we needed it.
Tuan joined us at 6 and we had our starters, which included some Saffer original springbokkies courtesy of Joss whilst listening to a SA playlist, which consisted of Mango Groove and Johnnie C amongst others. We then reminisced by playing Nando’s ads and Whackhead pranks before heading back to Shibuya to meet the American at the dog.
Shibuya was packed with people waiting to see in the New Year, and we were there early so I can’t imagine what it was like at midnight. We chose instead to countdown at Zojo-ji temple. Every year thousands of people gather at the temple and at midnight release balloons with their New Year wishes attached. It was by far the most amazing New Year I have had. We were totalled crammed but right next to the count down clock to see in the New Year with the gongs. Zojo-ji is right next to Tokyo tower so that too was lit up like a Christmas tree.
After the celebrations calmed down we headed back to Shibuya for more karaoke while we waited until dawn. So after yet more Toto and other cheesy 80’s classics it was time to go back to Tokyo Tower for the sunrise. Somehow Joss and I managed to make it inside to join in with the masses for the first sunrise of the New Year. In Japan this is one of most important traditions of the New Year and it was really special. Everyone got really excited as the sun appeared in the sky and it came with a spectacular view of the city and I finally got to see Fuji-san.
Joss and I finally returned to base at 9:30. I consider that a New Year seized.
Although we had not quite recovered we managed to gather enough strength to get up again and go back to Shibuya for dinner. We then split up and Joss and Penny went shopping while Joe and I attempted find some where to watch Avatar in 3D. This became the biggest mission of all. We had to head all the way to Shinjuku to find a cinema showing the film in English and 3D. We nearly missed it after being misdirected, but we were both determined to see it on the big screen and in 3D otherwise I would have never have forgiven myself.
It ended up being the most expensive movie I have ever watched in my life. The tickets alone were ¥2000 or R200 (so I never want to ever here anymore complying about Ster Kinekor, R60 is nothing) and then because the trains stop running at 12 we had to get a taxi home which cost another ¥3800.
But I am glad I did it. It really was a fantastic way to end one of best New Year adventures ever.
Saturday 2nd January – home time
All I did really was catch my train back. Though what makes this remarkable was that my shink arrived in Kokura LATE. I should have had 10 minutes to catch the Sonic back to Kitsuki but when I get there it was already 5 minutes passed before I realised my train had left. Though as it turned out my train didn’t even come. There was an accident somewhere along the line – from what I could gather with broken English and my Japanese – and I would have to wait until I could get another one. Though if I had listened to the first person I spoke to I would probably still be there.
I ended up waiting for 2 hours on the platform for a train back to Kitsuki. It was freezing and all I can say is thank heavens for video iPods. The wait in the cold was worth it though as I was one of the few people to get a seat by the time the train finally arrived. The cold and I are finally making peace. I then nearly missed my stop as they were not displaying the stops and I had to listen to the Japanese announcements and then guess. It was karma as such things are unheard of.
Despite all the drama and adventure it was nice to get back to my own floor, but I am just glad I finally got to do Tokyo and in the best possible company.
Saturday 26th December – Christmas
Despite all my planning and best efforts, including booking a later train, I only made it to Kitsuki station with 3 minutes to spare. I think I had over packed a bit, though in true Rhodent fashion much of it was a selection of the best South African wine I could find in my town.
After taking the Sonic from Kitsuki to Kokura I caught the Nozomi to Tokyo station. I love taking the trains. Asides from the small inconvenience of not having a place to stash your luggage it is the nicest way to travel. It is fast and comfortable and I have never slept so well on public transport. And, unlike flying you actually get to see the scenery. It is pure fallacy that you don’t get to see the countryside. In fact I would say you get to see more of it – just really quickly. Sadly it was dark by the time I got into the greater Tokyo area so I missed Fuji-san.
I was met at Tokyo station by Joe, a fellow Cape Town dweller who my travel mate on my flight to Japan, who then took me back to Shirokana dai where we would spend our first few nights. I was greeted at my accommodation with the small of roasting chicken – it was wonderful. Joss, my little saffer sister and Penny (Joe’s wife) had spent the day preparing a belated Christmas dinner – complete with roasted veggies, carrots and a salad that included feta cheese. It was the best meal that I have had since coming to Japan. They really went to a lot of effort as it is a mission to find a whole chicken in Japan.
The rest of the evening was just a blur of food, presents and German and South African wine. We also took the opportunity to watch actual television – just like Christmas at home. It was just so nice to be back in South African company with people who speak your language and understand what you mean when you say braai or robot. As Joss kept saying the whole holiday “Ons moet n ander taal praat” as the two of us proceeded to butcher the Afrikaans language.
Sunday 27th December - Shibuya & Harajuku
It had been decided that this would not be a hectic, mad rush of a holiday and that we would rather take it easy in Tokyo. So no getting up early to catch the train or mad attempts to fit everything in. So Sunday only really began at about 10 with a really late breakfast.
It was then time for our alternative tour of Tokyo as guided by Joss. We started off at Shibuya at the world famous statue of Hachiko. Hachiko is the Greyfriars Bobby of Japan who waited at the station for his master every night for 10 years. The statute dates back to 1936 and last year his story was made into a movie starring Richard Gear (though I have an inkling it was only “loosely” based on the real story). This is one of the favourite meeting places in Tokyo, though it still can be a mission to find the people you are looking for, as Shibuya is just so busy. In fact it is one of the busiest places on earth. Thousands of people cross Shibuya crossing on a daily basis to get to and from the station. Even at night it is just a mass of people. It is truly fantastic.
We then made our way through all the shops and side streets towards Harajuku. Penny, Joe and I were just so lucky to have Joss who pretty much owns the Tokyo. It is really nice to walk Tokyo but it does help if you have someone who knows where they are going and I am still insanely jealous of her placement in Tochigi.
Harajuku was something else. We took ages walking down Takeshita-dori which is an alley filled with lots of tiny shops. No Louis Vuitton or Channel here. It is the centre of Tokyo’s teen culture and rather alternative, so we witness to some of the crazy aspects of Japan. We were a bit late but we did get to see one or two Harajuku girls and a couple of the Elvis impersonators but didn’t see them perform.
So after an evening of meandering and shopping, we grabbed a crepe and headed back to the house.
Monday 28th December – Senso-ji Temple & Akihabara
Penny and I started the day off bravely with a trip to the hairdressers. Yet again I had to break out my best charades skills to explain what I wanted. Though I still maintain that East London is the best place in the world to get a hair cut. It was actually quite reasonable for Japan – even in comparison to the crazy prices that Cape Town hairdressers feel they are justified in charging – and it included a head massage. The cut wasn’t too bad and it should hold out till I get home in July. They just have a habit, as Joss puts it, of blow-drying western hair in a style that would have been acceptable in the 80’s. It is just accepted that it is going to be easier to have long hair in Japan.
After a lunch of udon and tempura we made our way Senso-ji Temple, the most sacred temple in Tokyo. Sadly it was being renovated so we couldn’t see the main hall in all its splendour. Though the 5–story pagoda and Nakamise-dori still made it worth the visit. I was a bit worried about my fortune I received – though it was a bit better than Joss’, which was the “last and final” fortune. Mine was just bad. What happens is that after a donation of ¥100 you get to shake a box and pull out a numbered stick. You then take your fortune from the same numbered draw. This was mine (and in case you were thinking of commenting about the spelling and/or grammar this was is in fact an accurate transcription) :
No. 77 BAD FORTUNE
Everything stay and stick without progress. Even if you want to let other people know your name or try to get good fortune, never desire what beyond your control.
It is real hard to cross, on the boat, a pid and high wave is on your way.
Although your request seem to be granted, by enormous, barrier, your goal is far away like the earth to the sky.
* Your request will not be granted. * The patient is hard to get well. * The lost article will not be found. *The person you wait for doesn’t come. * Building a new house and removal are both bad. *To start a trip is no good. *Marriage of any kind or new employment are both bad.
So it is good to know all this now before I build my mansion in Camps Bay or plan my trip to the moon. I am also not sure what they mean by marriage of any kind…
Akihabara was our next destination. This is Tokyo’s electronics district, which developed out of the ruins of WW2. It is also otaku (easily identified by their backpacks and plaid shirts) central and we visited a 6-story manga fanatic’s paradise. The area surrounding the station is just a blaze of colourful lights and shops selling electronics.
Tuesday 29th December – Kamakura Town & Yokohama
We decided to head out of Tokyo to Yokohama and Kamakura town. I love Japan’s train system and if you ever find yourself in Tokyo then get a suika – it makes life much easier and if you hide it in your gloves you can confuse the station guards by swiping you hand.
Anywho Kamakura is now my favourite place in Japan. It is just the most wonderful town and I would like to go back and see more. It was Japan’s capital from 1185 – 1333 though I beginning to realise that EVERYWHERE has been Japan’s capital at some point. The life span of Japan’s capitals seems to be a kin to that of the fame of UK reality TV stars – and sooner or later everyone gets a chance. Regardless, Kamakura is worth the visit and I didn’t spend nearly enough time there. I really loved the tiny electric train that runs through the town.
Kamakura has over 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist temples as well as (according to my Kyoto-sensei) the biggest bronze Buddha in Japan. The Daibutsu, as it is known, was cast in 1252 and has survived every possible form of natural disaster (including Americans). And for a mere R2 you can go inside and admire the technologically advanced (for the time) casting techniques.
From Kamakura we stopped over in Yokohama for dinner in China Town – and it is amazing how you could tell the difference. Almost every restaurant window had displays of the different size portions of shark fin soup, though it did not inspire me to try it. We ate at one of restaurants down one of the many alleys, where Joss and I were robbed of our dumplings. The food was really good and I am pleased to say they I did not have sweet and sour pork.
Next on the tour was the Cosmo Clock 21 the largest Ferris wheel in Japan and allegedly the world. It was a bit expensive but worth it to see the night lights of Yokohama. We also rode the rollercoaster, which Joss and I just laughed through, though I am still not sure exactly what was so funny. Though the best bit of that ride was the plunge into the tunnel.
Wednesday 30th December - Comiket
One of the best things about my trip to Tokyo was that we really did a combination of things. To truly visit Japan you have to explore all of its many facets, including the bizarre and alternative. You will get really bored if you spend the entire time visiting only temples and shrines. Sure, you need to visit some but Japan is much more diverse and interesting, and you can’t ignore the popular culture. So Wednesday was spent at Comiket also know as the Comic Market. This is was Comic Con is to comic book fanatics and Star Trek conventions are to Trekkies.
We met up with Tuan aka sunshine, and made our way along with the rest of Tokyo to Tokyo Big Site. This is in Odaiba near Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo’s only beach. It was incredible just due to the masses of people that were coming and going. At one point, we had to join this circulating sea of people and just move in a circle until we hit the exit like salmon. It seemed like the only way to get anyway was to join a stream and hope that you got where you wanted to go.
The exhibition halls were also packed with displays. Comiket is for fans who want to display there own, privately produced manga, fanfic and merchandise. Everything is divided into sections and there was even one area dedicated to cat lovers. We didn’t make it to the commercial hall, as we took one look at the crazy queue and decided it wasn’t work it.
Though by far the best bit was the cosplay square, where fans dress up as their favourite characters and pose for photographs. Some of the costumes are just astounding in terms of the detail. Tuan was particularly good at harassing the cosplayers into posing with his Springbokkie plushy. Cosplay isn’t really accepted in Japan – much like many other youth culture movements – and it is a crazy contrast to the usual rigid, formal norms of their society.
Dinner was eaten in Shibuya and followed with 3 hours of traditional Japanese entertainment – karaoke. It really is a blast, though it depends on whom you are with, and really there is nothing better than blasting out the National Anthem after a rousing, rendition of Toto’s Africa (I think we scared our 2 American guests). It fact it could almost have been a castle advert.
Friday 31st December – 1st January 2010 - New Year’s Eve & New Year’s Day
In preparation for New Year’s Eve we spent the day at the flat relaxing and building up some strength – and considering how our night ended up we needed it.
Tuan joined us at 6 and we had our starters, which included some Saffer original springbokkies courtesy of Joss whilst listening to a SA playlist, which consisted of Mango Groove and Johnnie C amongst others. We then reminisced by playing Nando’s ads and Whackhead pranks before heading back to Shibuya to meet the American at the dog.
Shibuya was packed with people waiting to see in the New Year, and we were there early so I can’t imagine what it was like at midnight. We chose instead to countdown at Zojo-ji temple. Every year thousands of people gather at the temple and at midnight release balloons with their New Year wishes attached. It was by far the most amazing New Year I have had. We were totalled crammed but right next to the count down clock to see in the New Year with the gongs. Zojo-ji is right next to Tokyo tower so that too was lit up like a Christmas tree.
After the celebrations calmed down we headed back to Shibuya for more karaoke while we waited until dawn. So after yet more Toto and other cheesy 80’s classics it was time to go back to Tokyo Tower for the sunrise. Somehow Joss and I managed to make it inside to join in with the masses for the first sunrise of the New Year. In Japan this is one of most important traditions of the New Year and it was really special. Everyone got really excited as the sun appeared in the sky and it came with a spectacular view of the city and I finally got to see Fuji-san.
Joss and I finally returned to base at 9:30. I consider that a New Year seized.
~~~
Although we had not quite recovered we managed to gather enough strength to get up again and go back to Shibuya for dinner. We then split up and Joss and Penny went shopping while Joe and I attempted find some where to watch Avatar in 3D. This became the biggest mission of all. We had to head all the way to Shinjuku to find a cinema showing the film in English and 3D. We nearly missed it after being misdirected, but we were both determined to see it on the big screen and in 3D otherwise I would have never have forgiven myself.
It ended up being the most expensive movie I have ever watched in my life. The tickets alone were ¥2000 or R200 (so I never want to ever here anymore complying about Ster Kinekor, R60 is nothing) and then because the trains stop running at 12 we had to get a taxi home which cost another ¥3800.
But I am glad I did it. It really was a fantastic way to end one of best New Year adventures ever.
Saturday 2nd January – home time
All I did really was catch my train back. Though what makes this remarkable was that my shink arrived in Kokura LATE. I should have had 10 minutes to catch the Sonic back to Kitsuki but when I get there it was already 5 minutes passed before I realised my train had left. Though as it turned out my train didn’t even come. There was an accident somewhere along the line – from what I could gather with broken English and my Japanese – and I would have to wait until I could get another one. Though if I had listened to the first person I spoke to I would probably still be there.
I ended up waiting for 2 hours on the platform for a train back to Kitsuki. It was freezing and all I can say is thank heavens for video iPods. The wait in the cold was worth it though as I was one of the few people to get a seat by the time the train finally arrived. The cold and I are finally making peace. I then nearly missed my stop as they were not displaying the stops and I had to listen to the Japanese announcements and then guess. It was karma as such things are unheard of.
Despite all the drama and adventure it was nice to get back to my own floor, but I am just glad I finally got to do Tokyo and in the best possible company.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
My ice planet Hoth
So anyone who even vaguely knows me, knows how much I hate the cold. I think it must be the German blood. Even in summer I carry a warm top – just in case it gets cold. So on an average day in Japan I wear: Leggings, a vest, 2 pairs of socks, a long top, jersey, pants and a jacket – accessorised with a stick on Hokairo, and one in the pocket for extra measure. I would wear a scarf but I am verboten at school. I do have a Linus blankly though.
So when I initially agreed to come to the Arct…Asia, it was under the impression that Japan (being the high-tech country that it is) would be prepared for winter. It was only once I got here that I was told that there is nothing. They can handle an earthquake but apparently they haven’t quit conquered the annoying little hyperthermia problem.
So anywho, I was now faced with a summer of giant spiders and a winter of extreme cold and frostbite. And honestly I can’t decide which is worse so far.
This morning was particularly bad. I know this because I was cold under my pile of duvets and blankets. I could see my breath in my lounge – and that was after drinking coffee. I think this would have a lot to do with the fact that it was it was 8°C, inside, according to my aircon.
I really love the way that every heating device comes with a thermometer so you know exactly how much you are suffering and how ineffectual it actually is. And it is all very well having a heater in the living areas but where it really counts is the Frozen Throne that is the bathroom and toilet. I mean after all it is the one place where you remove the layers of protective thermal underwear. I am seriously considering that the risk value of “electrocution in return for warmth” may actually be worth it.
In fact 2 weeks ago I gave in and bought a kerosene heater. I was initially sceptical what with the dangers of flammable liquids, and not to mention the smell. But after receiving my electricity bill for the relatively (in retrospect) tolerable October, I decided that it might not be too bad. And it was worth it.
At first it was a bit like crawling into the stomach of a disembowelled tauntaun, but when it is as cold as it is here, and when you have my lower than average body temperature, you change your mind faster then the growing list in Tiger Wood’s little black book.
Oh and I forgot the best part. While I already have to defrost each morning, my teachers take great delight in informing me that it is really not to bad and it is only going to get worse – come February. I can’t help but think that they are trying to get rid of me.
I was particularly bitter this morning. Firstly, due to the fact that I woke up cold. Which is partly my own fault because after discovering that my heater was out of gas I was too lazy to go and fill it up. So I couldn’t set the timer so I could wake up toasty. And then despite the insane cold there was no snow. It would be the one compensation for the さむい (cold) torture from which I am suffering.
Then to my delight it started to snow! It was wonderful. Well it wasn’t real snow at first – just that initial icy stuff you get. But for an African I think it counts. It then later became more ‘snowy’ - if you could say that - with bigger flakes. Sadly it didn’t stick. It all seemed to melt as it hit the ground. Regardless it was enough keep me smiling for the rest of the day. Unfortunately for my 三年生 (3rd years) they are outside competing in their 3rd year sports day, while I get to stay in the (finally) heated staff room.
Hopefully it will continue to snow through the weekend when I can take advantage of the cold and keep warm whilst watching movies and drinking Milo… now that is hypothermia prevention.
So when I initially agreed to come to the Arct…Asia, it was under the impression that Japan (being the high-tech country that it is) would be prepared for winter. It was only once I got here that I was told that there is nothing. They can handle an earthquake but apparently they haven’t quit conquered the annoying little hyperthermia problem.
So anywho, I was now faced with a summer of giant spiders and a winter of extreme cold and frostbite. And honestly I can’t decide which is worse so far.
This morning was particularly bad. I know this because I was cold under my pile of duvets and blankets. I could see my breath in my lounge – and that was after drinking coffee. I think this would have a lot to do with the fact that it was it was 8°C, inside, according to my aircon.
I really love the way that every heating device comes with a thermometer so you know exactly how much you are suffering and how ineffectual it actually is. And it is all very well having a heater in the living areas but where it really counts is the Frozen Throne that is the bathroom and toilet. I mean after all it is the one place where you remove the layers of protective thermal underwear. I am seriously considering that the risk value of “electrocution in return for warmth” may actually be worth it.
In fact 2 weeks ago I gave in and bought a kerosene heater. I was initially sceptical what with the dangers of flammable liquids, and not to mention the smell. But after receiving my electricity bill for the relatively (in retrospect) tolerable October, I decided that it might not be too bad. And it was worth it.
At first it was a bit like crawling into the stomach of a disembowelled tauntaun, but when it is as cold as it is here, and when you have my lower than average body temperature, you change your mind faster then the growing list in Tiger Wood’s little black book.
Oh and I forgot the best part. While I already have to defrost each morning, my teachers take great delight in informing me that it is really not to bad and it is only going to get worse – come February. I can’t help but think that they are trying to get rid of me.
I was particularly bitter this morning. Firstly, due to the fact that I woke up cold. Which is partly my own fault because after discovering that my heater was out of gas I was too lazy to go and fill it up. So I couldn’t set the timer so I could wake up toasty. And then despite the insane cold there was no snow. It would be the one compensation for the さむい (cold) torture from which I am suffering.
Then to my delight it started to snow! It was wonderful. Well it wasn’t real snow at first – just that initial icy stuff you get. But for an African I think it counts. It then later became more ‘snowy’ - if you could say that - with bigger flakes. Sadly it didn’t stick. It all seemed to melt as it hit the ground. Regardless it was enough keep me smiling for the rest of the day. Unfortunately for my 三年生 (3rd years) they are outside competing in their 3rd year sports day, while I get to stay in the (finally) heated staff room.
Hopefully it will continue to snow through the weekend when I can take advantage of the cold and keep warm whilst watching movies and drinking Milo… now that is hypothermia prevention.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
My first sumo experience
Currently I am on my friend the Sonic on the way to Fukuoka. I is sumo weekend and the biggest sumo tournament in Kyushu. I have done some recon on event so it doesn't just look like 2 big guys running at each other. Though from what I have read it seems to be exactly that. But more on that once I have had some viewing experience.
…some time later…
So the entire weekend was fantastic. Sumo was much more fun than I had imagined. Fukuoka was lovely as usual and it was nice to sleep on a mattress again. Though let me start at the beginning.
I arrived in Fukuoka planning to check into my hotel and relax until I had to meet the rest at 13:00. Only the hotel refused to book me in until 3, leaving me with 2 hours to kill and not much enthusiasm to go to far. So after meandering aimlessly around the Hakata station shops I decided to treat myself to a manicure while I waited. And what is better than spending an hour being pampered. I went into a small salon under the station, and managed again after much charades and broken Japanese to explain what I wanted – a basic French manicure. From what I could gather this is not standard practice. Nail care here is an art. In fact they have “nail art” on the menu, and despite it not being my thing it is rather spectacular. There is nothing plain about the fake nails here. Each one is a tiny creation, consisting of diamante and other inlays to create a flash of glitter, colour and sparkle. When I first sat down and had to wait I was given a nail magazine to glance through (I wish South Africa could support the niche magazine industry that they have here) – it was the size of the special edition SA Cosmo. Consisting of pages and pages of the latest styles and techniques. Though, undoubtedly, my favourite article was the one on how to customise your nails to match your boots. And I am not talking to match black, brown or any colour. I am talking about the details such as pattern, style and details. So if you happen to be wearing pink lace up boots with purple details your nails should be pink with a lace up detail and of course some diamante for sparkle. Before I forget I must mention that no 2 nails are the same these are individually crafted and set into the gel – as far as I can tell – and not just plucked on.
I watched the woman next to me having her pink glitter creations removed. The manicurist had to file down the whole nail and remove the diamante implants with clippers. It was like watching someone trying to sand down tarmac. I have enough issues with filing my nails to have to sit through that.
It was an experience and I have to say she did a spectacular job with my nails. They feel like art works and I am loath to remove the varnish. Oh and the highlight was when she put on some cuticle oil from South Africa – you can find home in the strangest of places.
After my 1 hour of pampering it was time for sumo. There were matches throughout the day starting with high school and lower level wrestlers, building up to the big matches at the end of the day. When we got to the stadium we waited out side a bit to watch the wrestlers go inside. There men are huge, and I am not talking about fat - tall and built. SA would do well to employ some on our rugby team as there bodies are built to take the impact of their equally massive opponent rushing towards them. In fact I would like to suggest that sumo become part of the training regime for SA rugby, especially since that embarrassing loss to the frog eaters.
Before I start on the actually matches I would like to clarify one thing. Sumo wrestlers are not just the fat kids from school that needed a hobby. These guys are amazing athletes and they are not just fat. Underneath all the exterior skin is muscle. Granted some of them, okay most of them, have huge stomachs but the power behind them is not just the result of too much sake and rice. But when you watch these guys pound into each other – and there is almost a metric ton of force generated in doing so – their bodies just absorb the impact. There is not perpetual fat motion to be seen. In fact sumo is seen as a solution to combating obesity in children. Becoming a sumo wrestler requires a strict diet and parents of future stars are encouraged not to let them over eat. The training and diet turns excess body fat into muscle and many kids that start sumo lose weight as they progress. Regardless of this, I still don’t think that McDonalds is the best sponsor for sumo – and yes one of the top wrestlers has a McDonalds endorsement.
If you ever do get the chance to watch sumo it really helps to have someone with you who knows what is going on and can explain. As I mentioned before we had Yellie, a passionate sumo lover who was able to answer all our questions and give us all the details on the wrestlers. Each match is over pretty quickly. They take less than 30 seconds most of the time. Though we were treated, in the very last match between 2 tournament favourites, to one that seemed to last for ages. Most of the match is the purifying of the ring. Sumo has strong Shinto roots and before the match can begin the wrestlers stamp their feet and through salt to purify the ring and drive away evil spirits. Once they are ready to fight they have to get their breathing synchronised. This is considered essential in sumo tradition though many other foreign countries are becoming less and less concerned with the traditions – a matter of some contestation. After this the match is pretty much over in seconds. The aim is to get your opponent to step out of the ring or place some other part of their body (asides from the souls of the feet) onto the floor. Technique comes into play when you have to receive the impact of your opponent and then find a way to force him out of the ring or onto the floor. This can result in some pretty spectacular throws and more than once I was glad I did not have ringside seats as these huge men were flipped into the audience.
Sumo is becoming more and more international. Currently the top wrestlers are from Mongolia, and there hasn’t been a Japanese champion since the late 90’s. Many of the (go figure) ex-communist countries also compete and we watched a guy from Bulgaria beat one of the top 2 fighters. It has also become a Olympic sport, and so to comply to regulations women are also allowed to compete. Though they are (also) mainly Russians. However Shinto tradition does not allow for women to enter the ring otherwise they will destroy the purity and so they are only allowed to compete in certain places, and certainly not the most scared of Sumo halls. Apparently last year some woman tried to storm the ring and had to be taken down by one of the wrestlers.
The only annoyance was this Japanese hippy that complained that we were all making too much noise – I mean honestly who talks and gets excited at a sports event – and complained to the ushers instead of just moving to one of the hundreds of empty seats. I some times do not understand the Japanese. On the way back on the train I was placed next to a woman that chose to sit rather in one of the many empty seats on the car but still place her luggage right in front of her seat so as to make my life difficult.
After sumo it was just dinner and back to the hotel for the best night’s sleep I have had in a long time. I need to buy a mattress. I can handle the futon and I am quite used to it but I do miss the comfort of wire springs.
On Sunday, Ann and I headed to a flea market at on of the local shrines. I wish I had had more money and more knowledge of Japanese antiques. There must have been masses of treasures there. Some of the other ALTs found beautiful old Obos and kimonos. Flea markets tend to be the same regardless of where you go in the world but this really was wonderful – with almost everything being antiques (including classic Snoopy telephones) and odds and ends. No hippies in site and only one Serbian guy selling the usually silver jewelry. All bought, besides a bean paste fish, was a hand made wooden puzzle of a 5-story pagoda. Though, there was some really nice art from WW2 that, if I had the money, I would have liked to come home with.
Catch some of my pics here.
…some time later…
So the entire weekend was fantastic. Sumo was much more fun than I had imagined. Fukuoka was lovely as usual and it was nice to sleep on a mattress again. Though let me start at the beginning.
I arrived in Fukuoka planning to check into my hotel and relax until I had to meet the rest at 13:00. Only the hotel refused to book me in until 3, leaving me with 2 hours to kill and not much enthusiasm to go to far. So after meandering aimlessly around the Hakata station shops I decided to treat myself to a manicure while I waited. And what is better than spending an hour being pampered. I went into a small salon under the station, and managed again after much charades and broken Japanese to explain what I wanted – a basic French manicure. From what I could gather this is not standard practice. Nail care here is an art. In fact they have “nail art” on the menu, and despite it not being my thing it is rather spectacular. There is nothing plain about the fake nails here. Each one is a tiny creation, consisting of diamante and other inlays to create a flash of glitter, colour and sparkle. When I first sat down and had to wait I was given a nail magazine to glance through (I wish South Africa could support the niche magazine industry that they have here) – it was the size of the special edition SA Cosmo. Consisting of pages and pages of the latest styles and techniques. Though, undoubtedly, my favourite article was the one on how to customise your nails to match your boots. And I am not talking to match black, brown or any colour. I am talking about the details such as pattern, style and details. So if you happen to be wearing pink lace up boots with purple details your nails should be pink with a lace up detail and of course some diamante for sparkle. Before I forget I must mention that no 2 nails are the same these are individually crafted and set into the gel – as far as I can tell – and not just plucked on.
I watched the woman next to me having her pink glitter creations removed. The manicurist had to file down the whole nail and remove the diamante implants with clippers. It was like watching someone trying to sand down tarmac. I have enough issues with filing my nails to have to sit through that.
It was an experience and I have to say she did a spectacular job with my nails. They feel like art works and I am loath to remove the varnish. Oh and the highlight was when she put on some cuticle oil from South Africa – you can find home in the strangest of places.
After my 1 hour of pampering it was time for sumo. There were matches throughout the day starting with high school and lower level wrestlers, building up to the big matches at the end of the day. When we got to the stadium we waited out side a bit to watch the wrestlers go inside. There men are huge, and I am not talking about fat - tall and built. SA would do well to employ some on our rugby team as there bodies are built to take the impact of their equally massive opponent rushing towards them. In fact I would like to suggest that sumo become part of the training regime for SA rugby, especially since that embarrassing loss to the frog eaters.
Before I start on the actually matches I would like to clarify one thing. Sumo wrestlers are not just the fat kids from school that needed a hobby. These guys are amazing athletes and they are not just fat. Underneath all the exterior skin is muscle. Granted some of them, okay most of them, have huge stomachs but the power behind them is not just the result of too much sake and rice. But when you watch these guys pound into each other – and there is almost a metric ton of force generated in doing so – their bodies just absorb the impact. There is not perpetual fat motion to be seen. In fact sumo is seen as a solution to combating obesity in children. Becoming a sumo wrestler requires a strict diet and parents of future stars are encouraged not to let them over eat. The training and diet turns excess body fat into muscle and many kids that start sumo lose weight as they progress. Regardless of this, I still don’t think that McDonalds is the best sponsor for sumo – and yes one of the top wrestlers has a McDonalds endorsement.
If you ever do get the chance to watch sumo it really helps to have someone with you who knows what is going on and can explain. As I mentioned before we had Yellie, a passionate sumo lover who was able to answer all our questions and give us all the details on the wrestlers. Each match is over pretty quickly. They take less than 30 seconds most of the time. Though we were treated, in the very last match between 2 tournament favourites, to one that seemed to last for ages. Most of the match is the purifying of the ring. Sumo has strong Shinto roots and before the match can begin the wrestlers stamp their feet and through salt to purify the ring and drive away evil spirits. Once they are ready to fight they have to get their breathing synchronised. This is considered essential in sumo tradition though many other foreign countries are becoming less and less concerned with the traditions – a matter of some contestation. After this the match is pretty much over in seconds. The aim is to get your opponent to step out of the ring or place some other part of their body (asides from the souls of the feet) onto the floor. Technique comes into play when you have to receive the impact of your opponent and then find a way to force him out of the ring or onto the floor. This can result in some pretty spectacular throws and more than once I was glad I did not have ringside seats as these huge men were flipped into the audience.
Sumo is becoming more and more international. Currently the top wrestlers are from Mongolia, and there hasn’t been a Japanese champion since the late 90’s. Many of the (go figure) ex-communist countries also compete and we watched a guy from Bulgaria beat one of the top 2 fighters. It has also become a Olympic sport, and so to comply to regulations women are also allowed to compete. Though they are (also) mainly Russians. However Shinto tradition does not allow for women to enter the ring otherwise they will destroy the purity and so they are only allowed to compete in certain places, and certainly not the most scared of Sumo halls. Apparently last year some woman tried to storm the ring and had to be taken down by one of the wrestlers.
The only annoyance was this Japanese hippy that complained that we were all making too much noise – I mean honestly who talks and gets excited at a sports event – and complained to the ushers instead of just moving to one of the hundreds of empty seats. I some times do not understand the Japanese. On the way back on the train I was placed next to a woman that chose to sit rather in one of the many empty seats on the car but still place her luggage right in front of her seat so as to make my life difficult.
After sumo it was just dinner and back to the hotel for the best night’s sleep I have had in a long time. I need to buy a mattress. I can handle the futon and I am quite used to it but I do miss the comfort of wire springs.
On Sunday, Ann and I headed to a flea market at on of the local shrines. I wish I had had more money and more knowledge of Japanese antiques. There must have been masses of treasures there. Some of the other ALTs found beautiful old Obos and kimonos. Flea markets tend to be the same regardless of where you go in the world but this really was wonderful – with almost everything being antiques (including classic Snoopy telephones) and odds and ends. No hippies in site and only one Serbian guy selling the usually silver jewelry. All bought, besides a bean paste fish, was a hand made wooden puzzle of a 5-story pagoda. Though, there was some really nice art from WW2 that, if I had the money, I would have liked to come home with.
Catch some of my pics here.
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